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Tampilkan postingan dengan label sure-fit designs. Tampilkan semua postingan

Comfortable Culottes

Yes, that's right, culottes are back.  Some never really stopped wearing them, simply because they are so comfortable, but now they are officially back.

 I first read this article in the Style & Travel section of the Wall Street Journal (by Cheryl Lu-Lien Tan), but in doing research about culottes and their comeback, my guess is that it's appeared in other publications.  She says that they're back in a big way for the first time since the 1980's.  You all know that if we wait long enough, the fashion cycle just goes round and round.

This style typically features a  wide, and often voluminous leg that extends from a cinched waistline.  The hem can be anywhere from an inch below the knee to a couple of inches above the ankle.  What makes them so comfortable is that for a really good fit that doesn't bind and pull in the crotch, the crotch point needs to be dropped and extended.  The hang of the leg improves, they won't crawl up between your thighs, and they can give the look of a drapy skirt.

The photo below shows culottes that I designed and sewed for an article featured in Dressmaking with Stitches (an Australian publication).  Of course, the cross-over wrap blouse is also an SFD creation designed and sewn from the Dress Kit.
What to consider when wearing culottes?  Well obviously your height and shape make a difference.  Here are 5 tips that I'll share with you from the article.
  • Shorter women will no doubt need heels (shoes or boots) with culottes; taller ladies can wear flats, sandals or fancy sneakers.
  • Keep the top slimmed down if you have particularly voluminous legs.
  • For evening wear, choose a dressier fabric like silk, or drapy polyesters.
  • High-waisted culottes are the most flattering; low-waisted versions can make you look short legged.
  • For fall and winter, turtlenecks and knee-high boots work best.
  • Steer clear of fabrics that are too stretchy or clingy (such as jersey).



Here's a few of the featured culottes and though I'm not excited about the ones with the hemline boarder trim, they do show you alternative examples.




From InsideOutStyleBlog.com (Imogen Lamport) (who I've recommended many times for dressing for your body shape), she's just written a recent blog on how to dress and accessorize when wearing culottes.  Make sure you take a look at her blog since she offers lots of great photos and excellent accessorizing alternatives. (PS - I should also mention that Sure-Fit Designs is not associated with InsideOutStyleBlog in an way either for personal or business relationships.  I simply happen to believe that Imogen does an excellent job of all the information she presents on her blog).



And, aren't we lucky that with SFD, we don't have to rely on ill-fitting ready-to-wear.  We can sew our own and know they'll fit properly.  Fashion Leaflet #2 gives you all the details you need to design your own from your SFD Pants pattern.  Click Here.
You can choose this version with a 'gaucho' style of leg treatment, or the directions will also tell you how to add a pleat that drapes directly out of center front.  Either way, you win with comfort and fashion.

Kindly,
Glenda...the Good Stitch!


You Look Fab

Every now and again, I like to recommend good blogs to you - particularly on different topics that I typically don't discuss.  You Look Fab is one of those blogs.

Even though I have my own ideas of what looks good/best on various figure shapes, I'd rather leave this topic up to experts who specialize in this topics.  You Look Fab helps you to identify what figure shape you are.  There's lots of information if you simply click here.  Here you'll find extensive discussion on the Apple, Pear, Rectangle, Hourglass, and Inverted Triangle body shapes among other great topics to help you choose the best style for your body shape.

And then you'll find great clothing combinations to get you started on coordinating what's best for you.  Here are some examples from You Look Fab:



Remember - half the battle of looking good in your clothes is wearing garments that fit.  That's why we love SFD!  The other half, of course, is choosing styles best suited to your body shape.

Have fun browsing around the You Look Fab blog.

Kindly,
Glenda ...the Good Stitch!

SFD with a New Look

You know I always encourage you to use your commercial patterns as a stimulus for your own creations.  And that's exactly what one SFD customer did.  Enter Nadine who used New Look 6243 for her basic dress inspiration.  She had an upcoming wedding and wanted a special dress for the event.  Here she is.  Doesn't she just look lovely in it?
I'd worked with Nadine over the previous months to make sure her bodice was fitting her to perfection.  And now the wedding was getting closer.  It was time to choose the fabric and go for it.  Here's what she did to her SFD bodice pattern.
For the sheer neck/shoulder piece, she simply sliced off her SFD bodice in mid-armscye on both front and back.
Then with the remaining lower bodice, the bust dart got transferred into a princess line style.  The bodice back was also shaped with a princess line.

She drafted a half-circle skirt and made sure the waist lines on bodice and skirt matched.

All these beads...yes, she lovingly stitched each one on individually.  Nadine used 3 different kinds of glass bugle beads...dark plum, abalone and amethyst.  They added just the right amount of  'bling' without being too showy.



Her fabric choice was the Casa line (from Jo Ann) in poly crepe with a poly chiffon for the sheer yoke all in a beautiful eggplant color which looks so lovely on Nadine.  Of course she made the matching wrap in Casa satin.
She's gained so much confidence in following through with this entire project.  And in her words, 'I am sooooo happy!  I've been smocking and sewing formal dresses for all my daughters, but now to add in the ability to fit myself...my dream come true!

I'm sure Nadine would love to hear your comments.  You truly have done a lovely ensemble that you should be so proud of!

Thanks so much for sharing with all our SFD sewists.

Glenda...the Good Stitch!

Asymmetrical Zippered Jacket - Fashion Leaflet

It's finally done!  I know a lot of you were excited to hear that this new jacket design would be available to you.  It's one more unique design that you can draw from your SFD Dress Kit.  You can purchase this Fashion Leaflet from this page - Downloadable Fashion Leaflets.
Exposed zippers are ever so popular.  This jacket features a separating exposed zipper, a shoulder yoke that wraps from the front over the shoulder to the back, and of course, ever-flattering princess lines in both front and back.

The collar is super easy.  I used the Mandarin Collar pattern piece from the new SFD master pattern Collar Collection that is now found in the 5th edition Dress Kit.  If you don't already have the new Collar Collection, you can order it from this page - Collar Collection & 5 edition Dress Book.


I also used the basic Sleeve pattern (with elbow dart).  I wanted to keep this part simple, but if you were so inclined, you could always draw the 2-part, more tailored sleeve featured on pages 34 & 35 of the new 5th edition Dress Kit Instruction book.


 Wear open or closed.  It works either way.  Most of you already know I sewed this from a stretchy, squishy, sticky, spongy fabric...I wouldn't do that again.  It looks like leather but isn't.  Though in sewing, I needed to treat it like leather.  I got one chance to sew it right as the needle left holes in the fabric just like real leather.  This is a jacket I definitely recommend sewing a test mock-up of.
Remember I showed you this jacket on Imogen Lamport (Inside Out Style).  I don't know what fabric was used.  It's possible she didn't sew it.  But you can see that it's a style suitable for any season.

You can get your downloadable copy of this new jacket - Asymmetrical Zippered Jacket - on this page - Downloadable Fashion Leaflets.  $5.99.

Have fun...
Glenda...the Good Stitch!

 

Winner $20 SFD Bucks


Thanks so much to all of you who entered the raffle to win $20 SFD Bucks.  The deadline for entering this contest was August 29, 2014.

And...the winner is Doreen Tamulevicius!


Doreen is relatively new to Sure-Fit Designs.  Her suggestion for a quick and easy Made in a Day project was a wrap skirt.  Thanks Doreen.  This is easily accomplished with the skirt pattern from the SFD Dress Kit.

I plan on filming a short how-to video for this project just to show you how easy it really is.  Maxi-length skirts and dresses are back in fashion, so this is perfect timing.  Now I just need to find the time to shoot the video, but it will come.  In the meantime, for any of you who already have the SFD Children's Kit, you'll find simple directions for designing this on page 27.


Thanks to all of you who offered suggestions for a Made in a Day project...I appreciated receiving all of your ideas.

And please welcome Doreen to Sure-Fit Designs.  I hope you enjoy using this fitting system as much as countless others already do.


Kindly,
Glenda...the Good Stitch!

Choose for You!

...choosing the right design lines for your personal body shape is what I'm talking about.  I get asked so frequently to offer information on what styles look best on any given body shape.  As all of you know who read this blog, Sure-Fit Designs is all about getting the best fit possible for your unique body shape and that's very definitely achievable when using SFD.  Now, once you get your fit all worked out, which so many of you have accomplished in spades, what style of garment to sew that is most flattering to your figure is a whole other topic.  I'd love to be able to wear yet another 'business hat' so that I could offer you that information, but alas, there are simply not enough hours in my day.

Enter in Inside out Style blog...Easy Style Solutions for Every Woman, by Imogen Lamport (from Australia).

www.insideoutstyleblog.com/

Imogen does a fantastic job of helping you to identify your body shape.  Whereas I often refer to body shapes as 'heart', 'diamond', 'rectangular', Imogen uses the letters of the alphabet, like A, H, I, O, V, & X.  And when you think about this, it makes sense.  Click on Body Shapes Explained.

http://www.insideoutstyleblog.com/2010/11/body-shapes-explained-defining-points.html
Imogen offers information on just about every body part you can imagine - arms, shoulders, legs, hips and bottom, bust line, as well as for plus size, petites and generally creating an overall look for visually slimming.

Imogene writes about a wide variety of topics relating to style, body image, body shape, face shapes etc.  This blog is a wealth of information.

One of her recent blogs was on self-image and aging.  As I look in the mirror everyday and see a few more wrinkles and a little more of my scalp (yikes!), I have to remind myself that fortunately I'm above ground and still able to see these things.  And, hopefully, a little wiser too.  She's recently offered a short blog Don't Age, Evolve!



And on the topic of measuring, as you who are using Sure-Fit Designs know, when you measure, you're measuring your body so that you can apply those measurements to the SFD master patterns to achieve your best fit.  Imogene, on the other hand, shows how to measure to see what your body proportions are.  Your proportions from top to bottom are going to influence the style you choose for the most flattering effect.  See this short video -



For those of you looking to find information on what style best suits you, make sure you spend some time poking around the InsideOutStyle blog.

Thanks Imogene for sharing your wealth of knowledge and information.

Kindly,
Glenda...the Good Stitch!

How to Fit Commercial Patterns - DVD - Just Released

I'm asked so frequently if the Sure-Fit Designs patterns can be used to help fit your commercial patterns.  The answer, of course, is a resounding YES!

As a result of your requests and because there is very little information 'out there' on this topic, we have produced and just released the newest and latest instructional DVD on the topic Fitting Commercial Patterns.




Take advantage of the Introductory Discount.  Through August 25 you can save 20% on your copy of this DVD.  Just click here...order yours...and while in the Shopping Cart, use Discount Code FCP20 to receive your discount.

Listen as as I share my thought processes with you in how best to evaluate the fit of 6 different commercial patterns.  You'll see 3 Dress Kit Bodice examples, 2 Pants pattern examples, and 1 Shirt pattern example.  I'll discuss ease relationships, dart placement, changing the dart to gathers, evaluating princess line patterns, asymmetrical styles, shoulder slope and yoke development, crotch lengths and shapes along with much, much more.

In this 1 hr 45 min DVD, you'll find 8 chapters chocked full of examples and information.  Here are a few photo highlights from the DVD.














 Here's a very short video describing the highlights of this new DVD - Fitting Commercial Patterns.  Please take a couple of minutes to learn more.

This is a new DVD product you won't want to miss.  So take advantage of the Introductory Discount.  Through August 25 you can save 20% on your copy of this DVD.  Just click here...order yours...and while in the Shopping Cart, use Discount Code FCP20.

Kindly,
Glenda...the Good Stitch!

Fit for a J-Cup - No more FBA

Hello to all my full-busted friends. 

Not too long ago, I received this lovely email from one of our UK customers, who had this to say, 'Just wanted to say thank you so much for the wonderful Dress Kit. My daughter is blessed with J cups and struggles to find clothes to fit properly.  Although I am an experienced seamstress, my efforts to make clothes for her have ended up as hours of trial and error from cutting the pattern to finishing the garment (including countless fittings), and the garments never quite look professional.  They are only saved by the neatness of my work.

I found Sure-Fit Designs by accident when, for the umpteenth time, I was looking for a way to do an FBA for J cups.  Ignoring my two attempts to adjust measurements before making the actual pattern, I started at the beginning and followed your instructions to the letter.  The result, after simply adjusting the side seam to accommodate the Beyond E bust dart and narrowing the chest, was so amazing!  My first muslin was near perfect.

I can't thank you enough.  It was well worth the agonizing 2 week wait for the kit to arrive in the UK.'
K.R. - UK

Here is her lovely young daughter who wishes to remain anonymous.  She graciously agreed to share these photos with all of you.




Her 'practice' test blouse sewn from large-checked gingham.
Notice the horizontal checks of this gingham are hanging near to totally parallel to the floor.  That's a real compliment to the Beyond E instructions and SFD Adjust-A-Bust template.


Here is her 'practice' sleeveless blouse.


Many ladies venture into using the Sure-Fit Designs Dress Kit - specifically the bodice pattern - because they'll never need to do another FBA.  For all my newbies, or small-busted women who don't need this, an FBA is a Full Bust Adjustment.  You typically need to slash the pattern in a myriad of directions to spread the front open to make it wider and longer.  But not with the Sure-Fit Designs Adjust-A-Bust template.  This Bust template comes with the SFD Dress Kit and gives you dart shapes from A through E.


And when you are larger than an E bra cup size, I offer two resources showing you how to extend this template to make it the width of dart you need.

Read this article - Beyond E - in the SFD Learning Center Article Library.  Just click on this Beyond E link and look for article F.5.

Additionally here is the video showing you how to actually construct this template.

One other comment I suggested for her next blouse, is that for very full-busted ladies, you can always give one more measurement dot to the front of the pattern and one less measurement dot to the back bodice.  E.g. If you were 40" around for a total bust circumference, you'd use the 41" dot in the front and use the 39" dot for the back bodice.  Here is a short video showing you how to do this on the SFD Shirt Kit.  And even though it's the Shirt Kit, the concept is still the same.



For the newcomers to SFD, you too can achieve this kind of fitting success!

Kindly,
Glenda...the Good Stitch!

Planning Ahead - PPO

Project management, planning & organization (and thinking ahead).  As with any project, PPO is very important!  Unless, of course, you've already done it a million times before and you know the process inside out.  So when planning a sewing project, you kind of have to think it through on the front end.  Not just fabric you want to sew it from, but when you're designing from a your body blueprint (a sloper), you need to think through the entire project.

This is actually easier than it may initially sound, since the majority of you reading this blog already know how to sew.  The following are preliminary questions:
  • What do you want it to look like?
  • What are the dominant design features?
  • What pattern pieces will be the major players - like fronts - back - sleeve?
  • What pattern pieces are needed in the supporting role - like facings - plackets - collar - cuffs?
  • What length do you want?
  • How much ease do you want?
  • Will it be sewn from a knit or woven fabric?
  • How is it all going to go together - the sewing construction steps?
  • Do you know of a garment in ready-to-wear (or perhaps one hanging in your wardrobe) that you can copy?
  • Do you have an old commercial pattern somewhere in your pattern stash that can help?

To help you 'see your way' through the initial designing of a sewing project, we produced a video looking at what to evaluate when drawing and copying a ready-to-wear blouse.  Blogger cooperated this time and let me paste this video into the blog.  I hope you'll take the few minutes to watch my thought process and also where to get SFD resources to help you find the information you need for your desired sewing project.
Perhaps this will help you in designing your next project with your SFD body blueprint.  Whether it's a blouse (from the Dress Kit), pants or a dartless casual shirt (from the Shirt Kit) the information presented should assist.

Here's a photo of the finished blouse.   You know the old saying 'Practice makes perfect'... and though it's not difficult...it does get easier with each new project.

Yes, it's a sheer fabric, which I seldom wear.  And if you'd like to know more about working with sheers (and my sheer experience), make sure you reference these 2 short blogs:

Kindly,
Glenda...the Good Stitch!

Princess Pretty - Part 2

Last week I began a review of designing and drawing the basic princess line.  The videos showed you how to draw this design line into either the shoulder seam line or the armscye - whichever your preference, they're both easy.

This week, I'd like to show you how easy it is to shape that princess seam and nip it in at your midriff and waistline.  It really is just a matter of stitching on either side of the waist-fitting dart, but for whatever reason, sometimes this is a difficult concept to grasp.

First, let's take a look at this photo.  You'll see the princess line bodice comes in fairly close to the mannequin's waist circumference.
Now, take a look at the short video on how to shape this seam to your midriff and waistline.

Next, I'll show you how to draw the princess line that comes from the armscye but it bisects the bust dart.  You actually end up with a short remainder of bust dart aiming to your apex.  Now, what's interesting about this design is that it really does nothing for waist shaping.  You'll see by the photos that the waist tends to stand away from the mannequin.  This is because that's the waist-fitting dart (space) and nothing has been done with it.  Yes, you can stitch this as a shaped dart.  It all depends on the finished look you'd like to have.





Here's the video explaining this process.

Now, last but certainly not least, is what to do with the back bodice and how to create the princess line back there.  Again, some get stumped when there isn't a bust fitting dart that is used for the princess line.  Basically, it's simply a matter of drawing the design line where you want it, slashing and spreading the pattern and adding seam allowances.  But you can slash down through the center of the back waist-fitting dart and then up to the shoulder or armscye.  And if you have a shoulder dart, then you'd cut on either side of the dart, which when your seam allowances are added, you incorporate the shoulder blade shaping.
I hope you can see the princess seams in the back of this blouse, it's kind of a busy fabric, but I love wearing it.

Here's the short video on designing the princess line in the bodice back, but you'll need to click on this link - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8EZGOT4tLtc
For whatever reason, Blogger isn't letting me actually find this video to paste in this blog.  Fortunately, it's easy enough for you to click on the link.  It's well worth watching if you've ever been a little shy of designing the princess line in the bodice back.

In addition to these videos, don't forget you can find the written general instructions for princess line designing on page 32 of the Dress Kit Instruction Book.

Don't be timid...have fun...and have a go!

Kindly,
Glenda...the Good Stitch!



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