Cropped Leg Pants Continued

Remember last week I showed you the easy jeans-style inset pocket?  Well this week I must do a quick review of the seam down the center of the back pant leg.  Even though I typically don't put this seam down the back leg of my pants pattern, I decided to for these cropped leg pants.

This seam really can make a big difference to the fit.  For those of you with a flat butt or for the larger backside in relation to relatively thin legs, this seam is a life-saver!  Team that up with a horizontal fish-eye dart and you've got a winner.

Now...once the seam is down the center of the back pants leg, then I also incorporated a small horizontal fish-eye dart.

Here's a close-up.

 

I think you can see the seam a little better in this close-up.  The fabric has kind of a waffle-like texture and honestly, the seam just simply gets lost.

Once you've refined your personal pants blueprint to include this seam and the horizontal fish-eye dart, just use your pattern over and over again.  Two extra seams takes no time at all to sew.  Just change the style of waist edge treatment, the opening details, width of leg and finished length - they all will give you satisfaction.

I should mention that because this was a stretch-woven fabric, I chose to finish the waist with 2" (5 cm) wide elastic.  They are totally pull-on because the fabric had enough stretch to pull up over my hips.  Actually, this pattern is a combination of the yoga/travel/comfort pants from Pants that Mix n Multiply and the easy jeans-style inset pocket from your SFD Pants Kit instruction book.

Here's the video on how to draw the horizontal fish-eye dart in the back leg of your pants pattern.
It's not too long.  Please take a look if you haven't watched it before.

If you so choose, when you're sewing this center leg seam, leave a 4" or 5" slit/vent open at the hem level.  Yes, you are emphasizing the seam, but now the design all looks like an intended variation.

Have fun and enjoy the fit!

Kindly,
Glenda...the Good Stitch!

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Planning Ahead - PPO

Project management, planning & organization (and thinking ahead).  As with any project, PPO is very important!  Unless, of course, you've already done it a million times before and you know the process inside out.  So when planning a sewing project, you kind of have to think it through on the front end.  Not just fabric you want to sew it from, but when you're designing from a your body blueprint (a sloper), you need to think through the entire project.

This is actually easier than it may initially sound, since the majority of you reading this blog already know how to sew.  The following are preliminary questions:

• What do you want it to look like?

• What are the dominant design features?

• What pattern pieces will be the major players - like fronts - back - sleeve?

• What pattern pieces are needed in the supporting role - like facings - plackets - collar - cuffs?

• What length do you want?

• How much ease do you want?

• Will it be sewn from a knit or woven fabric?

• How is it all going to go together - the sewing construction steps?

• Do you know of a garment in ready-to-wear (or perhaps one hanging in your wardrobe) that you can copy?

• Do you have an old commercial pattern somewhere in your pattern stash that can help?

To help you 'see your way' through the initial designing of a sewing project, we produced a video looking at what to evaluate when drawing and copying a ready-to-wear blouse.  Blogger cooperated this time and let me paste this video into the blog.  I hope you'll take the few minutes to watch my thought process and also where to get SFD resources to help you find the information you need for your desired sewing project.

Perhaps this will help you in designing your next project with your SFD body blueprint.  Whether it's a blouse (from the Dress Kit), pants or a dartless casual shirt (from the Shirt Kit) the information presented should assist.

Here's a photo of the finished blouse.   You know the old saying 'Practice makes perfect'... and though it's not difficult...it does get easier with each new project.

 

Yes, it's a sheer fabric, which I seldom wear.  And if you'd like to know more about working with sheers (and my sheer experience), make sure you reference these 2 short blogs:

http://surefitdesigns.blogspot.com/2012/09/sheer-experiences.html and

http://surefitdesigns.blogspot.com/2013/05/sheer-experience-revisited.html 

Kindly,
Glenda...the Good Stitch!

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Tying it all Together

Sometimes it's difficult for some of you to visualize taking an idea from 'here' and mixing it with an instruction from 'there', then adding a little something extra from 'where'. As so many of you know, the Sure-Fit Designs system is not just a fitting system. It also offers all kinds of written instructions and video information on not just fitting, but on designing with your body blueprint (sloper) once you have it completed.

For those of you who follow this Sure-Fit Designs blog, you know that the last few blogs have been on pocket types, applications and sewing technique. As I was preparing the sample photos on drawing and stitching the double welt pocket, I also happened to be at our local JoAnn's (and almost one and only fabric store in Eugene, Or) I came across this novelty stretch bottom weight. I loved it immediately and thought of pants with a welt pocket in the back.

Next step was tying it all together. What style of pants did I want? Since the fabric had about 3 - 4% Spandex, even though it was a woven fabric, I knew it would give when wearing. Skinny came to mind. Jeans came to mind. But I didn't want traditional jeans with the fly front and typical pockets. I wanted to show you the welt pocket.

Here's what I tied together:

My jeans pattern - since wearing ease had already been removed. (Jeans: Behind the Scenes on DVD)

Style #1 - Flared Leg Pants - Elasticized Waist edge from Pants that Mix n Multiply. Though I didn't want flared legs. I wanted skinny all the way to the hem. What I wanted was the side seam invisible zipper and the elastic turned over waist edge.

Blog instructions for the Double Welt Pocket (from last week).

Now for the finished photos:

The double welt pocket.

The invisible zipper and elastic waist edge.

The finished ensemble:

Brown/black leopard-skin patterned fabric for the pants. I guess they could have been tighter but considering I never wear anything skin tight they suited my preferences...and they're totally comfortable. The blouse and jacket is from the SFD Shirt Kit pattern. The blouse has a shawl collar. You'll find directions for this collar on page 44 of the Dress Kit Instruction book. The jacket has a lapel collar and is sewn from a cotton chintz. I love this classic jacket! I've worn it for years and it still looks fine. That's one thing about choosing classic designs - good, bad or boring... they go forever. Remember Chanel...the Chanel jacket...they're still selling it...and you're still sewing it. Yeah!!! for classic designs.
Kindly,
Glenda
PS. I'm going to sew another top for these pants.  I've got the fabric.  It's a really nice cool (colored) brown sport knit.  Now I just need to find the time!

Next installment...I found the time to design and sew the Asymmetrical Pleated T-Shirt from the SFD Shirt Kit.  The directions for this comfy T-Shirt are found in the downloadable Fashion Leaflets.  Click Here if you're interested.

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**News Flash! - Bodice Fitting Course on DVD

I'm interrupting the short Knit Tip blog series for this important news flash!

The Bodice Fitting Course on DVD is finally done and available for you.  After many requests and with your enduring patience, we have finally produced this bodice fitting course to help you get an excellent bodice fit with your Sure-Fit Designs Dress Kit.

This short video gives you highlights of what's in the course and what you can expect. Please click on this link:

http://youtu.be/lQ50qAEp7Yk

This 2-DVD set, with 3.5 hours of instruction, is really the next best option to being here in Oregon with me in one of my Fit & Sew Retreats.  I know you'll benefit a lot by following along as I take you through the entire process of drawing off your SFD bodice with the Dress Kit.  For those of you reading this blog who don't yet have your SFD Dress Kit, you will need that along with the Designing Stylus and some tracing vellum.  If you follow the highlighted links, they take you to the respective pages on the Sure-Fit Designs website.

I'm offering a Pre-Order Special where you'll receive a 20% discount.  The new DVD course is regularly $59.95, but until March 31, 2014, if you enter Discount Code: BFC20 while in the Shopping Cart, you'll receive the discount.  The special price is $47.95 (+S&H).
Just click on this link to purchase yours - SFD Bodice Fitting Course on DVD

I'll share with you the insider tips that I talk about in my fitting classes.

You'll be shown 4 extra measurements that help you to drill down and truly personalize the first draft of your bodice.

There are 16 Lessons as well as 52 insider Pro-Tips to help you on your road to bodice fitting success.

And, there is even a lesson on designing with your blueprint.  You'll see the multitude of styles and fashions you'll be able to achieve no matter your body shape, lengths and circumferences.

I'm sure you'll enjoy this new Bodice Fitting Course on DVD.

Kindly,
Glenda

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Jayna's Firsts

Jayna has come a long way.  She attended the SFD Fit & Sew Retreat in August. She admitted that she did mostly craft projects (prior to the Retreat).  Why?  You guessed it - body hard to fit - commercial patterns certainly didn't work and most R-T-W offered a marginal fit at best.

The SFD Retreat stimulated her inherent love of creating and sewing.  She left there enthused to take up personal sewing again.  I encouraged everyone to go home and sew their 'test' patterns just one more time.  These are Jayna's second test pants and complimentary blouse/shirt.  Don't you agree she did a fabulous job?

But even though these were to be her second test pants, she decided to make it an outfit with coordinating blouse fabric with contrasting piping trim on the sleeves and collar.

And...she had never designed pockets and belt loops before, much less sewn them into pants.

Here's a close-up of Jayna's first time pockets and belt loops.  Jayna commented to me that she'd never designed anything relating to her clothing patterns, but when she got into it, she said the SFD Jeans directions were clear, simple and easy to follow.  And the great part is, she loved the process!  Didn't she do a great job?  But of course, the best part is the result, they are sewn beautifully and fit so well.

Her blouse is from her Dress Kit bodice blueprint (sloper).  Though you can't see it really well because of the fabric print, the bust dart is located in the standard side seam position.

The sleeve uses the Short Sleeve series of dots on the sleeve pattern.  The red piping matches her pretty tank top.

This Rolled/Convertible collar is from the new SFD Collar Collection.  Yes that's right!  Sure-Fit Designs is coming out with our new Collar Collection.  Six different collar patterns are offered with extensive instructions.  Now you won't need to create your own from scratch - they'll all be available - all you've got to do is copy your choice of collar shape.  Make sure you watch for your December SFD newsletter where I plan on announcing this Master Collar Shapes Collection.

Kindly,
Glenda

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October 2013 Fit & Sew Retreat Highlights

We all had a great time!  Fitting and sewing, sewing and fitting for 6 intense days.  A lot was accomplished.  Happy ladies perfected their pants and bodice fit.  Body issues and challenges were different from one to the next, but all left with well-fitting pants and tops.

Here are some of the highlights captured in photos.

Then on to their final projects:

We worked hard, but had lots of success and fun too.

To read student comments and see more photos, click here.

Fit & Sew Retreats for 2014

If you'd like to consider attending a Sure-Fit Designs Fit & Sew Retreat in 2014 - Click Here for all necessary details.  The Early Bird Discount is coming up on Nov. 16 for the February workshop - it's not too early to be planning ahead.

Kindly,
Glenda

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Darts & Color Blocking

Sometimes you might wonder what else you can do with the darts to make them kind of well...disappear.  Most of you know, you really can't do that since you need them for shaping your curves.  But you certainly can camouflage them by turning them into gathers or pleats.  Or...you can incorporate them into a color-blocking design as Joy has done (Joyful Expressions). 

Joy was copying a Burda pattern with her SFD dress blueprint and has done such a good job of explaining how to do this that I thought you should just see her video.
This is the Burda pattern that Joy copied.  Keep in mind, she did not have this pattern - she only saw the design lines and thought she would transform her SFD blueprint into this shift-style dress.

This is her completed accomplishment.

And, here's the video showing you how she did it.  (This is really Video #1)

Basically, your pattern would look like this illustration.

This is very definitely a great way to incorporate the dart for good fit as expressed in Joy's Color Blocking creation.  (Joyful Expressions)   Thanks for sharing and well done!

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Beyond the Dromedary Hump

I hope you read last week's blog on my husband's dromedary-humped back neck.  There I showed you a simple remedy for this high, rounded upper neck.

Now it's time to discuss other areas of rounding in our backs.  Depending on the shape of your back, how erect you are - how curved you are - how prominent your back shoulder blades are, you may need a shoulder dart.  Sometimes it doesn't always appear that obvious when looking at your back...not that you generally look at your back unless you've got a 3-way mirror...and then again, sometimes it is more obvious.

In taking a look at this photo, you'll see diagonal folds in the back bodice going from the underarm up toward the shoulder blades.  This is saying that she's rounded across her upper back and that back shoulder darts would help to eliminate them.

Here is what the bodice back looks like with the simple addition of a shoulder dart.

There is a marked improvement in the back fit.  It still might be a little too wide under the arms, but remember that some of this is necessary wearing ease.  If you remove it all, you've now got a moulage and won't be able to move in it.  This center back seam is there for final fitting refinements and so it could be curved slightly, but in this sample bodice that CB seam is perfectly straight.

Here's what a pattern looks like during the process of adding the shoulder dart.

 For complete step-by-step instructions to add the shoulder dart, click on this link - Adding A Shoulder Dart.

And for those of you who prefer to watch this process, here is the detailed video:

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Highlights - Fit & Sew Retreat - July Class

In all the Fit & Sew Retreats, I always feel so fortunate to meet such delightful women with their unique personalities.  This recent July 2013 workshop saw attendees from Portland & Eugene (Oregon), Idaho, Florida and Mexico.

Six days of lessons, drawing patterns, sewing and fitting can be wearing - we were all tired come Friday afternoon.  But even so, there was always time for some fun and laughter.  This is truly a beehive of activity.

We fitted sloping shoulders, rounded backs, forward thrusting neck, apple and straight-shaped frames and large upper arms.

Any of you who do photography know that without exception lighting, every crease, fold, or wrinkle will look its worst, particularly in muslin.  Just realize that in person the garment looks much better than the photo might portray.

And our sisters from Eugene and Portland, not only got their yoga pants completed (almost except the hem), they also designed and sewed their tank tops.  I'm very grateful that they've given permission to show these photos.

 Sorry these photos are dark - just simply not the best of lighting.

 And do notice...NO gaping armholes.  The SFD Bodice master pattern has a series of dots for sleeveless garments which raise and bring the armhole in slightly for a better fit.

My thanks to all of you for being such great students.

Kindly,
Glenda

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