Adapting and Drawing the Pants Front Waist/Crotch Grid for a Thick Waist and a Relatively Short Front Crotch Length

If you have a fairly short front crotch length measurement and you have a relatively thick waist, when drawing the pants pattern, you may find that your numbers 'fall off the Master Pattern Grid lines'.  This situation may occur when you are establishing the intersecting point for your waist measurement and front crotch length measurement on the Pants Front Waist/Crotch Grid.  In other words, the grid lines stop before your two numbers of waist measurement and front crotch length measurement have a chance to intersect.  These photos show and example of the type of body shape where this may occur.

 If this occurs, simply extend your appropriate grid lines straight down.  The waist measurement line (attached to your waist measurement number) will be drawn straight down.  The front crotch length measurement number will be extended downward but continuing on in its current angle and slope.

See the example diagram below where the person's waist measurement is 46" (116.6cm) and the front crotch length is 11 1/2" (29.2 cm).  Note how these lines have been extended and shown in continuous RED lines.  The BLUE dot represents where the two lines intersect.  This is where you would mark your placement dot for your CF waist measurement.  This dot, of course, would then connect (in either a straight or curved line) to your front side waist measurement dot.  And you would then continue to proceed to mark in your Dart tip and then your Front Crotch Pt. #1 and Pt. #2.  These steps are found in your Pants Kit instruction book, page 9, steps 9 and 10.

 Fine Tuning Your Pattern's Crotch Lengths - if Necessary

Once you have drawn your Back and Front Crotch lengths, also make sure you measure the finished lengths.  Since you are measuring a curve, remember to stand the tape measure on edge and walk the tape around the stitching line to ensure accurate length measurements.  The instructions and illustrations for this step are found in your Pants Kit instruction book on page 10, #13 - Fine Tuning Crotch Lengths.

Glenda...the Good Stitch!

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Removing Horizontal Fold Under the Tummy

Some women experience horizontal fullness or bagging directly beneath their tummy and just before the crotch curve begins.  Once you've sewn your test muslin for your pants, if this is occurring, you will find one suggestion for a minor tune-up on page 12 (#1) of the Pants Kit Instruction Book.  This may be a satisfactory refinement for you.

Another alternative is to remove this fold of fabric at CF. Follow these directions:
1.  To determine how much you need to remove, pinch out the fabric in a tiny fold.  If you pinch out 1/4" (.6cm), this will mean that you will be totally removing 1/2" (1.3cm).

Close-Up of dart/tuck wedge from CF going to nothing at the side seams.

2.  Mark this level location of CF of the crotch seam.  Draw a perpendicular line (to the grainline) over to the side seam.  Mark point A and B.

3.  Cut from CF to side seam, leaving a small hinge of paper at the side seam. This will act as a pivot point.  Secure the pivot point with plastic tape.

4.  Overlap the CF seam the amount you require, thereby crating a small horizontal dart or tuck which begins at CF and goes to nothing at the side seam.

5.  True the CF crotch seam.

6.  The more you overlap at CF, the more the waist edge tilts down and angles the CF seam.  To maintain the original orientation of the upper CF seam, when you true the crotch seam, you will be crating a narrow wedge as indicated by the green arrow.  (The blue line indicates where CF at the waist edge originated).

7.  Cut/remove this narrow wedge and tape it back in place at the side seam waist edge.  This will maintain the correct waist circumference and true the side seam shape so that it will sew in the same curve to the back side seam.

8.  Redraw and reposition the front hip-fitting dart to best suit your body contours.

9.  Bring the straight of grain up from the leg.

This process will shorten the CF crotch length by the amount of the dart/tuck.  Be aware that you may need to add this amount on to the back crotch length so that you maintain your overall crotch length requirement.

Happy Sewing!

Glenda... The Good Stitch

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Pants - Curving the Center Front Seam for the Protruding Tummy

As we age, many women develop a fuller tummy/stomach pouch.  Sometimes this is primarily at CF and immediately underneath the waist.  For other women, this rounding/fullness is not only under the waist, but it also spreads horizontally.

When you have this little belly/pouch, you will often experience fullness in the CF seam right underneath the pouch.

However, sometimes it fits just fine under the pouch, but you'll see drag lines/wrinkles pointing up toward the center of the tummy fullness.  If this occurs, then consider this CF crotch seam refinement.

Rather than maintaining CF as a 'straight line', it can be slightly curved right where the tummy fullness is located.

The result is that:
1.  You wouldn't be able to put in a zipper fly at CF - since you need a straight seam for this application.  But a zipper front might not suit your body shape anyway because of the tummy pouch.

2.  With a curved CF seam, you wouldn't want to sew with a stripe or checked fabric, as you'd end up with a 'chevron' effect at CF which likely wouldn't be that flattering.  Choose solid colors.

This added curvature doesn't need to be a lot to make a substantial difference.  So even though this refinement might sound a little strange, it really does work.

Here's a photo of a happy seamstress, as these are the best fitting pants she's ever worn.  In this photo, her blouse is tucked in to show the excellent pattern fit, but typically she only ever wears her blouses out over top of her pants.  This refinement really does work well!

Happy Fitting & Sewing!

Glenda...The Good Stitch

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Double Back Darts

This topic of double darts at the pants waist edge is well worth repeating.  I just had to show you another example of how adding a second dart at the waist line of your pants pattern can really improve the fit.

If you go from a relatively small waist to quite full high hips, I highly recommend adding a second dart to the waist edge of your pants pattern.

This lady attended one of my recent Fit & Sew Retreats.  She has a pretty dominant swayed, dipped center back (at the waist edge), quite full low hip measurement and thin legs.

Here's the result:

She's always had difficulty getting any pants (or skirt for that matter) to fit.  That's why she attended the Retreat.

Keeping in mind these are test pants, where every wrinkle and nuance shows, you're seeing a near to perfect fit at the waist and in the hips and a beautiful hang on the leg.  From a side view you're seeing a perfectly straight side seam.  CF needed to be raised slightly, but that was refined in the tune-ups.

In the above close-up, you're seeing the position of the 2 waist-fitting darts.  They shape her hip shape well.

She did a great job of drafting her pattern and the results as so worth her effort.  Well done...and great fit!

To see how to add this second waist-fitting dart, please watch this short video tutorial.

For any of you ladies who might fall into this category, you'll want to give this a try.

Kindly,
Glenda...the Good Stitch!

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Best Pants Styles for your Body Shape

I've recommended InsideOutStyle blog to you a couple of times...and here is a good reason why.  When you're looking for information on what styles look best on your body shape, Imogene Lamport, from InsideOutStyle, is the lady to ask.

 Here's a great and very informative chart on how to recognize what your body shape is and what style of pants would suit you best.

If you'd like to read more about how to analyze your shape, please click through to this page.
And from there, you know how easy it is to get the best fit possible when drawing and designing it yourself from your SFD pants body blueprint.

Aren't you glad you don't have to rely on ready-to-wear to supply you with well-fitting clothing?

Kindly,
Glenda...the Good Stitch!

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A BIG Thank you!

  What's in the blog?

1. A big, big thank you!
2. Narrowing the Pants Leg
3. Your favorite sewing notion

A Great Big Thanks

Glenda the Good Stitch is saying many, many thanks to all of you who took the time to complete the survey questions from last week.  Wow!  Did you ever provide lots of food for thought and great topics for the Good Stitch to discuss in the coming weeks and months.

I generally don't repeat blog information very often, but we've had an influx of new SFD followers, and obviously they don't all know what you might know.

Narrowing the Pants Leg

One respondent asked about the leg width of the SFD Pants pattern.  She said that due to her larger hip circumference, when the pants pattern was said and done, she felt the leg width was too wide.  Even though the leg width doesn't grade out as wide as was needed for the hip circumference, for her height, she wanted the leg narrower.  Personal preference comes into play her, as some ladies might say the leg width was just fine.

So here's a video showing you how to narrow the leg.  It's very simple to do as long as you keep the amount removed basically the same on the inseam and side seam.

I often get asked how long the pant length should be.  First, it all depends on the height of heel you'll be wearing with that particular style of pants.  Generally, the higher the heel height the longer the pant length. 

In addition to heel height, you also need to think about hem circumference.  Here's a little rule of thumb for the length and circumference of the hem:  The skinnier/narrower the width of the pants leg (like in skinny jeans), the shorter the pant length should likely be.  The wider the circumference of the pant hem (as in flared leg pants), the longer the pant leg should likely be.

Once again, for those of you how are relatively new to Sure-Fit Designs and may not be aware of all the educational resources we offer, make sure you spend some time in the SFD Learning Center Video Library.

Your Most Favorite and Useful Sewing Notion??

And on a totally different topic, please use the comment box below to tell me the most important (sewing) notion you'd simply never want to be without when garment sewing.

Thanks so much,
Glenda...the Good Stitch!

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Small Waist to Full High Hip

I know I covered this topic a few months ago, but I just had to show you another example of how adding a second dart at the waist line of your pants pattern can really improve the fit.

If you go from a relatively small waist to quite full high hips, I highly recommend adding a second dart to the waist edge of your pants pattern.

This lady attended one of my recent Fit & Sew Retreats.  She has a pretty dominant swayed, dipped center back (at the waist edge), and a small waist in relation to high hips that become quite full about 2 1/2" (6.4 cm) down from her waist level.  She is so curvy from waist to high hip, that I recommended she add a second dart at the waist edge of her pants patterns.

Here's the result:

She's always had difficulty getting any pants (or skirt for that matter) to fit in the high hip without being excessively big in the waist.

Keeping in mind these are test pants that are pinned closed, you're seeing a near to perfect crotch, perfect fit at the waist and in the hips and a beautiful hang on the leg.  From a side view you're seeing a perfectly straight side seam.

In the above close-up, you're seeing the position of the 2 waist-fitting darts.  They shape her hip shape beautifully.

She did a great job of drafting her pattern and the results as so worth her effort.  Well done...and great fit!

To see how to add this second waist-fitting dart, please watch this short video tutorial.

For any of you ladies who might fall into this category, you'll want to give this a try.

Kindly,
Glenda...the Good Stitch!

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Do you have a Crotch Peak?

What in heaven's name is she talking about??

When you're sewing your SFD Pants pattern, when it comes to the front and back crotch curves being joined together, as your measurement increases, you'll often experience a 'flip up' or crotch peak.  It looks like this.

Let's analyze this photo.  You can see that both the Back and Front Crotch Extensions are relatively flat.  But as you look at the pattern pieces being joined together when you match at the inseam, it forces these 'flat' crotch extension points to flip up in a peak.

Why does this happen?  It's because the inseam takes a relatively dramatic curve inward.  Nobody wants the leg of their pants to be baggy and that's why the inseam starts to curve inward.  If you think about it, if you had a right angle (90 degree angle), from Crotch Extension Pt. #2 straight down the inseam, then the crotch wouldn't flip up but the leg would then be really baggy on the inside of your legs.  Because the inseam does curve inward, the more it curves the more dramatic the flip up will be which causes this peak.  This is an anomaly that will happen with any pants pattern, not just Sure-Fit Designs.

If you go ahead and sew it along the 'regular' 5/8" seam lines, this is what it will look like.

 A better way to sew this is to lop off (true) some of this peak.  It would look more like the long dashed lines indicated in the above photo.  Baste first - try on.  Depending on how this looks and feels on your body, you may need to flatten (meaning stitch straight across) rather than in a slight curve.

Here's another example of across to flatten that crotch peak.

 This tends to occur and be more obvious with larger sizes along with a narrowed, tapered inseam.

This issue is actually addressed in the SFD Pants Kit Instruction Book on page 11 where there is an illustration showing you to 'True' from Back to Front as you cross over the inseam.

If this happens to be a situation you've come across, now you know how to deal with it.

Happy Sewing,
Glenda...the Good Stitch!

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Cropped Leg Pants Continued

Remember last week I showed you the easy jeans-style inset pocket?  Well this week I must do a quick review of the seam down the center of the back pant leg.  Even though I typically don't put this seam down the back leg of my pants pattern, I decided to for these cropped leg pants.

This seam really can make a big difference to the fit.  For those of you with a flat butt or for the larger backside in relation to relatively thin legs, this seam is a life-saver!  Team that up with a horizontal fish-eye dart and you've got a winner.

Now...once the seam is down the center of the back pants leg, then I also incorporated a small horizontal fish-eye dart.

Here's a close-up.

 

I think you can see the seam a little better in this close-up.  The fabric has kind of a waffle-like texture and honestly, the seam just simply gets lost.

Once you've refined your personal pants blueprint to include this seam and the horizontal fish-eye dart, just use your pattern over and over again.  Two extra seams takes no time at all to sew.  Just change the style of waist edge treatment, the opening details, width of leg and finished length - they all will give you satisfaction.

I should mention that because this was a stretch-woven fabric, I chose to finish the waist with 2" (5 cm) wide elastic.  They are totally pull-on because the fabric had enough stretch to pull up over my hips.  Actually, this pattern is a combination of the yoga/travel/comfort pants from Pants that Mix n Multiply and the easy jeans-style inset pocket from your SFD Pants Kit instruction book.

Here's the video on how to draw the horizontal fish-eye dart in the back leg of your pants pattern.
It's not too long.  Please take a look if you haven't watched it before.

If you so choose, when you're sewing this center leg seam, leave a 4" or 5" slit/vent open at the hem level.  Yes, you are emphasizing the seam, but now the design all looks like an intended variation.

Have fun and enjoy the fit!

Kindly,
Glenda...the Good Stitch!

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Hearts & Diamonds

I call them 'hearts' and 'diamonds' - some call them 'apples' and 'pears'.  In case you didn't guess, I'm referring to hip shapes of course.  And you could be a combination of both.  What I mean by this is that the hip circumference, either high or low, or maybe even both, are substantially larger than a relatively smaller waist circumference. 

Take for instance a waist of 34" (86 cm), a high hip of 45" (114 cm), and a low hip of 51" (129.5 cm).  In my book, that's a diamond shaped hip, with the fullness of a heart in the high hip.  And the depth of the high hip is 4" (10 cm) below the waist level.  That means if you want your pants waistband to fit comfortably without being excessively loose, you'll most likely need more than one dart to shape the fabric from the waist to the high hip.

So that the side seam of the pants pattern doesn't become too overly curved going into your waist point, I've recently released a new video called 'How to Add a Dart to the Pants Waist Edge'.

It's a very simple process, and if Blogger cooperates, you should be able to click on the video below and watch this short instructional video.

If the side seam gets too curvy, it still can be sewn together successfully, but inserting a side seam zipper would not be as easy as if the seam where straighter.

The second dart is generally place about mid-way between the first dart and the side seam, and it's generally shorter.  Of course this is variable and it can be placed where you most need it to accommodate your curves.

This process is easy to do and works quite well for the distinctive curvatures that many hearts and diamonds have.

Kindly,
Glenda...the Good Stitch!

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Tying it all Together

Sometimes it's difficult for some of you to visualize taking an idea from 'here' and mixing it with an instruction from 'there', then adding a little something extra from 'where'. As so many of you know, the Sure-Fit Designs system is not just a fitting system. It also offers all kinds of written instructions and video information on not just fitting, but on designing with your body blueprint (sloper) once you have it completed.

For those of you who follow this Sure-Fit Designs blog, you know that the last few blogs have been on pocket types, applications and sewing technique. As I was preparing the sample photos on drawing and stitching the double welt pocket, I also happened to be at our local JoAnn's (and almost one and only fabric store in Eugene, Or) I came across this novelty stretch bottom weight. I loved it immediately and thought of pants with a welt pocket in the back.

Next step was tying it all together. What style of pants did I want? Since the fabric had about 3 - 4% Spandex, even though it was a woven fabric, I knew it would give when wearing. Skinny came to mind. Jeans came to mind. But I didn't want traditional jeans with the fly front and typical pockets. I wanted to show you the welt pocket.

Here's what I tied together:

My jeans pattern - since wearing ease had already been removed. (Jeans: Behind the Scenes on DVD)

Style #1 - Flared Leg Pants - Elasticized Waist edge from Pants that Mix n Multiply. Though I didn't want flared legs. I wanted skinny all the way to the hem. What I wanted was the side seam invisible zipper and the elastic turned over waist edge.

Blog instructions for the Double Welt Pocket (from last week).

Now for the finished photos:

The double welt pocket.

The invisible zipper and elastic waist edge.

The finished ensemble:

Brown/black leopard-skin patterned fabric for the pants. I guess they could have been tighter but considering I never wear anything skin tight they suited my preferences...and they're totally comfortable. The blouse and jacket is from the SFD Shirt Kit pattern. The blouse has a shawl collar. You'll find directions for this collar on page 44 of the Dress Kit Instruction book. The jacket has a lapel collar and is sewn from a cotton chintz. I love this classic jacket! I've worn it for years and it still looks fine. That's one thing about choosing classic designs - good, bad or boring... they go forever. Remember Chanel...the Chanel jacket...they're still selling it...and you're still sewing it. Yeah!!! for classic designs.
Kindly,
Glenda
PS. I'm going to sew another top for these pants.  I've got the fabric.  It's a really nice cool (colored) brown sport knit.  Now I just need to find the time!

Next installment...I found the time to design and sew the Asymmetrical Pleated T-Shirt from the SFD Shirt Kit.  The directions for this comfy T-Shirt are found in the downloadable Fashion Leaflets.  Click Here if you're interested.

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April Fit & Sew Retreat: Photo Story

The Sure-Fit Designs April Fit & Sew Retreat has come and gone.  We had ladies from Canada, southern California, Washington, Utah and Iowa.  And what a lovely mix of ladies they were. 

During the first 3 days they worked on Pants fitting, drawing of the pants pattern, and sewing the test pants. If there was time, they moved on to drawing and sewing the Yoga pants project.  It's a good way to learn about working with knit fabrics in relation to the SFD master pattern and how to size down depending on the stretchiness of the knit.

All of the Sure-Fit Designs Fitting Retreats are held in 'Our Sewing Room' in Springfield OR (sister city to Eugene OR).  Our Sewing Room is a wonderful studio to teach and work in.  Lots of daylight, high ceilings, great lighting, cutting tables - enough for everyone to have their own - and has available sewing machines if you can't (or don't want to) bring your own.  Our Sewing Room was one of the sewing studios featured in Vogue Sewing magazine a couple of years ago.  There's only about 10 of these specialized sewing studios across the USA.  I'm so fortunate that I have this fabulous facility to teach in.

Sewing machines are supplied, but you can certainly bring your own.  And if you forget a supply item such as shears, rotary cutters, tape measures, rippers, tracing carbon and tracing wheels etc. are available for your use.

We had one lady with obvious asymmetry.  It was an easy refinement by using elastic at the waist to help identify and mark the low hip.

I know lots of you resist the thought of using a center leg seam to help contour the fabric to your body curves, but once done this and you see the difference in the fit, you'll become a convert.

As you look at these photos, please be realistic about some of the wrinkles you are seeing.  Poor lighting, wrinkly fabric, stitching techniques and lack of pressing are often the culprits.

Then we moved on to bodice fitting, drawing and sewing.  As you would suspect, there were a variety of body issues to address from very full busts, broad back, sway back, rounded back and large upper arm...

...to sloping shoulders and necklines that needed a little more breathing room.

And last, but certainly not least, a few of the almost completed yoga pants.


Everyone accomplished a lot based on their ability and on their particular fitting issues.  And though some projects weren't completed, for the time that was allowed, everyone did an excellent job.  Well done ladies!


If any of you are interested in attending a Fit & Sew Retreat this year, there is still 1 space available in the May 18 - 21 Pants Fitting Intensive (a 4-day workshop) and there are 2 spaces available in the October 19 - 24 Pants & Bodice Retreat (a 6-day workshop).  For more details on fees and other important information, please click - SFD Classes & Events or call me directly at 541-344-0422 (OR - PST)

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