Tampilkan postingan dengan label Plus Size. Tampilkan semua postingan
Tampilkan postingan dengan label Plus Size. Tampilkan semua postingan

Fit for a J-Cup - No more FBA

Hello to all my full-busted friends. 

Not too long ago, I received this lovely email from one of our UK customers, who had this to say, 'Just wanted to say thank you so much for the wonderful Dress Kit. My daughter is blessed with J cups and struggles to find clothes to fit properly.  Although I am an experienced seamstress, my efforts to make clothes for her have ended up as hours of trial and error from cutting the pattern to finishing the garment (including countless fittings), and the garments never quite look professional.  They are only saved by the neatness of my work.

I found Sure-Fit Designs by accident when, for the umpteenth time, I was looking for a way to do an FBA for J cups.  Ignoring my two attempts to adjust measurements before making the actual pattern, I started at the beginning and followed your instructions to the letter.  The result, after simply adjusting the side seam to accommodate the Beyond E bust dart and narrowing the chest, was so amazing!  My first muslin was near perfect.

I can't thank you enough.  It was well worth the agonizing 2 week wait for the kit to arrive in the UK.'
K.R. - UK

Here is her lovely young daughter who wishes to remain anonymous.  She graciously agreed to share these photos with all of you.




Her 'practice' test blouse sewn from large-checked gingham.
Notice the horizontal checks of this gingham are hanging near to totally parallel to the floor.  That's a real compliment to the Beyond E instructions and SFD Adjust-A-Bust template.


Here is her 'practice' sleeveless blouse.


Many ladies venture into using the Sure-Fit Designs Dress Kit - specifically the bodice pattern - because they'll never need to do another FBA.  For all my newbies, or small-busted women who don't need this, an FBA is a Full Bust Adjustment.  You typically need to slash the pattern in a myriad of directions to spread the front open to make it wider and longer.  But not with the Sure-Fit Designs Adjust-A-Bust template.  This Bust template comes with the SFD Dress Kit and gives you dart shapes from A through E.


And when you are larger than an E bra cup size, I offer two resources showing you how to extend this template to make it the width of dart you need.

Read this article - Beyond E - in the SFD Learning Center Article Library.  Just click on this Beyond E link and look for article F.5.

Additionally here is the video showing you how to actually construct this template.

One other comment I suggested for her next blouse, is that for very full-busted ladies, you can always give one more measurement dot to the front of the pattern and one less measurement dot to the back bodice.  E.g. If you were 40" around for a total bust circumference, you'd use the 41" dot in the front and use the 39" dot for the back bodice.  Here is a short video showing you how to do this on the SFD Shirt Kit.  And even though it's the Shirt Kit, the concept is still the same.



For the newcomers to SFD, you too can achieve this kind of fitting success!

Kindly,
Glenda...the Good Stitch!

What a beautiful smile and Oh...so flattering!

Doesn't this blouse just fit and look great on Lu?
Lu is a beautiful, tall, and yes, full-busted woman.  She also happens to be a friend of Joy's (Joyful Expressions).  And if you know Joy, you know she loves sewing and loves using Sure-Fit Designs.  Since Lu doesn't sew, and since Joy decided these fabric colors better suited Lu than her, she offered to sew this SFD blouse for her.

First, Joy did a 'muslin' test.

Obviously not muslin, but a test nonetheless, just to make sure the SFD bodice pattern was fitting Lu to perfection.  She decided that the 'E' cup dart shape from the SFD Adjust-A-Bust template wasn't quite wide enough.  So she then widened the dart shape to an 'F' cup width.

For any full-busted women, and particularly those of you beyond an 'E', you'll find an informative video showing you how to make the Adjust-A-Bust template larger for your special needs.  For the article telling you how to do this, click here to the SFD Article Library and look for article F.5 Beyond-E - Darts for Large Busts.

Also watch this Sure-Fit Designs video: 
I know you'll find this a simple and successful process.  For really full-busted women, it certainly beats the necessity to chop your pattern all up with a traditional full bust adjustment (FBA).

Here's Lu looking happy and sassy in her great-fitting blouse.
If you'd like to read the full account in Joy's blog, just click on over to Joyful Expressions.
Of course, at the end of this successful blouse story, Lu asked if she sewed pants too?  I think you likely know the answer to that one!

One other little tip I'd like to give you is that for those of you who have fairly full bustlines and a relatively narrow back in comparison, you can always use one dot larger in the front of your pattern, and one smaller in the back bodice.  As an example, if you were 46" in total bust circumference, you could use the 47" dot on Bodice Front at Underarm Pt. #2 and at the top leg of the bust grading dots and use the 45" dot on Bodice Back at Underarm Pt. #2.  You end up with the same amount of total bust ease, but you've distributed more to the front and less to the back...and the front is where you need it.  You'll see this instruction on Page 6 of the Dress Kit Instruction book - for Larger/Smaller Front or Back.

Joy and Lu - thanks so much for sharing...
Kindly,
Glenda

Let's Continue with the Asymmetrical Waist Level

Last week you took a look at how to alter your pattern for asymmetrical shoulders.  This week, I'll share with you one of our newest videos on how to change the waist line of your skirt or pants if you have one hip higher than the other.  If you own this situation, you've likely experienced your hem level swings up on one side and making it uneven.  I hope you're not just cutting off the uneven portion...it will totally mess up the grainline and hang of the hem.

This video is a short one and shows you how simple it is to refine your skirt or pants pattern at the waist level for your asymmetrical hip and waist.

If you'd like to share this video on your own sewing blog or Facebook page, please feel free to.  One of my goals this year is to spread the word about the Sure-Fit Designs fitting and designing system with more seamstresses.  I'm asking you to help me out, and in return, I'm happy to connect with your blog and let others know of your experiences.

Kindly,
Glenda

A New Video Series - Fitting your Shoulder - Square Shoulder Adjustment/Minor-Tune-Up


At Sure-Fit Designs™, we've made a commitment to your fitting success with your sewing patterns.  In that regard, we are constantly adding new instructional and educational videos for your benefit.  As of December 2012, we now have 100 videos that I know will help many of you achieve the very best fit possible. And, they are all free - no strings attached - no registration or sign-up is required.  These videos cover all kinds of topics from drawing the Sure-Fit Designs patterns to pattern refinements and modifications to designing with your patterns.  I'll be sharing them in this blog, but if you want to, go directly to the Sure-Fit Designs Video Library.

For those of you who follow this blog and for those of you who just wander by as a result of a random search, I'll be showing you 'old' videos as well as new ones as they become available.  So if you haven't already, make sure you subscribe to this blog (the subscription link is on the lower left of this page), so that you'll then receive notification of new blogs as they are posted.

This week I'm going to start by giving you a new series of instructional videos on how to get your pattern's shoulder line to fit with your shoulder line and shape.  The first one is on how to square the shoulder.  I hope you enjoy and benefit from seeing this quick and easy pattern adjustment (or as I call them - minor tune-ups).

Also, just a quick request from me...please share any of this video content on your personal blog or Facebook page and help me to spread the word about the Sure-Fit Designs fitting and sewing system.  Thanks so much, Glenda.

Here's the Square Shoulder Minor Tune-Up/Alteration - it's amazingly quick and easy!


Here's the Horizontal 'Fish Eye' dart for the Flat Backside

Last week, I showed you Joy and Phylly's great video on drawing the Princess Line pants using their Sure-Fit Designs pants pattern.  You'll remember that Phylly commented about how great that CB leg seam is for shaping the fabric to a flat backside.  In essence, within that seam you are incorporating a vertical 'fish eye' dart.

Another option to think about is folding out a horizontal 'fish eye' dart in the pattern, which can also help to remove the back-seat 'baggies'.  So here's one of my latest videos on drawing this minor tune-up.

The back-seat baggies seem to be an issue on the aging female body though it can definitely happen with younger women as well.

If you do make this refinement to your pattern, make sure you test, test, test!  Well...one test will likely be enough, but I just wanted to emphasize the importance of testing when you make a pattern modification like this.

And I know many of you groan at the thought of having a CB seam in the back of your pants leg, but if it improves the fit no one, or very few, will ever notice it.  In fact, you'll get compliments on how well your pants are fitting.

New Year's Resolution? Sewing Clothes that Fit during Weight Loss

I know the holiday season can play havoc with our diets.  There's just too many tempting tasties and before you know it, you've gained a little unwanted weight.  Now it's time to change your eating habits, but in the meantime, you need something to wear that fits, is comfortable and that will be easily adjusted as you loose weight.

I've been asked frequently from those who are loosing weight for suggestions as to the best style of garments to sew during this process.  If this situation is something you're dealing with, you may be interested in watching this video.  You'll find helpful recommendations when sewing with the Sure-Fit Designs fitting and sewing system.


I know you'll just love these Easy Wrap Pants!  Instructions are found on Leaflet #8 - just Click Here!

(Feel free to share this video on your personal blog or Facebook page.  Thanks for spreading the word about Sure-Fit Designs.  Happy New Year! Glenda)

Does Sure-Fit Designs Give Sewing Directions?




Help...How do I sew this together?  I often am asked if Sure-Fit Designs™ provides sewing instruction steps.  Beginners using Sure-Fit Designs™ are particularly concerned that they might not know how to sew the garment together and what should happen first if they design the pattern themselves.

Even though Sure-Fit Designs™ is primarily a fitting and designing system, there are sewing construction steps provided for specific designs in the Dress, Pants, Shirt, Children’s kits and in the Men’s Instructional Package.  This resource guide is posted as an article on the website - www.sfdLearningCenter.com, but I know some of you reading here don't typically go to the website for information.  

So here’s where you’ll find the information and though construction illustrations are not always provided, the instructions tell you what to do and in what order.
Pants Kit:
  • How to sew basic pants together is provided on page 11 of the Pants Kit Instruction book
  • Sewing jeans is provided on page 23.
  • Sewing an elastic waist is on page 24.
  • Inserting a pocket opening (eliminates the need for a zipper and is extremely comfortable) is on page 25.
  • Inserting an inseam pocket is on page 25.
  • Sewing a zipper fly front is on page 27.

Dress Kit:
·        Bodice sewing construction steps are found on the following video tutorials.





Shirt Kit:
·       General instructions for sewing the shirt are on page 13 of the Shirt Kit Instruction book.
·       Sewing robes are found on page 17.
 

Children’s Kit:
  • General instructions for sewing elastic back pants are found on page 16 of the Children’s Kit Instruction book.
  • How to insert a zipper fly front is on page 17.
  • How to attach a bib to a waist edge is on page 18.
  • General instructions for sewing a shirt/blouse are on page 20.
  • Sewing a child’s cross-over shoulder T-shirt is on page 21.
  • Sewing a hood on to a neck edge is found on page 22.
  • How to sew a tab neckline treatment is on page 26.
  • General skirt sewing instructions are on page 27.
  • How to sew a tab front is found on page 29.
  • How to sew children’s robes are on pages 30 & 31.
  • How to sew a girl’s party dress is on page 32.

Men’s Instructional Package:
  • General sewing construction steps for men’s pants is on page 10.









Additionally, all the newest Fashion Leaflets and book/DVD combinations provide fully illustrated sewing steps. 
Newest downloadable leaflets:

Newest book/DVD combinations: 
(Each book/DVD is designed specifically to go hand-in-hand with the SFD Pants Kit, Shirt Kit and Dress Kit.)

In an effort to give you sewing construction guidance, first analyze your current resources.  Did you know all of this existed in the Sure-Fit Designs™ kits, patterns and leaflets?   

Do you have a stockpile of existing commercial patterns?  The sewing steps provided on the accompanying guide sheets provide an excellent source of instruction.  Their pattern may not be exactly what you are wanting to sew, but if there is any similarity in design to what you are creating, their instructions can be a great resource.

Do you have any general sewing construction resource books?  There are a number of comprehensive books available that not only provide construction techniques, but will also provide step-by-step procedures.  My favorite is the Vogue Sewing Book.  It’s a thick resource guide and well worth the investment.

What do you recommend as your favorite how-to sewing reference book?

Getting that darned Crotch Curve to Fit!!!

So many women are on the seemingly never-ending search to find a crotch curve for their pants pattern that will fit their exact body shape and contours.  And so you should be, because a well-fitting crotch curve is one of the key ingredients in the perfect fitting pants.

The Sure-Fit Designs Pants Pattern has served so many so well over the past 30 years, but I know some of you are still skeptical.  Will if fit me???

Some of you will definitely fit 'straight-out-of-the box'.  Others of you may need to do refinements or minor tune-ups.  At Sure-Fit Designs, we provide all kinds of help for you.  You can watch any number of free videos on pants fitting at www.sfdLearningCenter.com/VideoLibrary.html.

But, I'd also like to share with you one of the Sure-Fit Designs (SFD) customers, who has tried many different pants patterns, many different experiments with 'bendy curves and butt tucks' to get just the perfect crotch fit, and ended up coming back to the SFD Pants pattern for her best and excellent fit.

In essence, Joy (from Joyful Expressions), shows how she manipulated the crotch curve with a 'butt tuck', and ended up with the pants shaping her backside, but that alteration changed the hang of the leg.  And if you pinch out a fold in the side seam, it helps to remove these diagonal wrinkles.
But then she says...'I had the choice of fixing my blueprint by adding the tuck from the outside leg, or starting over.  I decided to start over with a new SFD pants drawing and just TRUST the fit as it came out with NO CROTCH CORRECTIONS. 

I happened to have about six yards of this lightweight camo fabric in the closet that I bought when my 20-year old grandson was a little boy.  I decided he probably didn't want his Grandma making him camo pants anymore, so I pulled it out of the closet to use for my "muslin".  Here's how it turned out:













Even though we can't see all the great fitting details in this camo fabric, you can tell from an overall view that the fit is excellent.

For those of you who still might be skeptical about the results that Sure-Fit Designs can offer, I hope this has alleviated some of your concerns.

You can read Joy's complete post at http://joyful-expressions.blogspot.com/2012/11/pants-pictures-praise-for-sfd-and.html.

And if you'd like to investigate the SFD Pants Pattern a little more, please go to: SFDLearningCenter

Help! My Pattern Doesn't Fit



I don’t hear this comment very often, but when I get emails or phone calls and someone says ‘My pattern’s skin tight’ or ‘My pattern is too big’, it always is important to first check that you’ve drawn your pattern correctly.  And it’s not just drawing the pattern according to the simple SFD steps, but also that you’ve added seam allowances and cut and sewn the garment all accurately.

Here is a check list of variables that you need to check first because discrepancies with any of these can change the result of the final fit.  And if you prefer to watch the video where you can see what I'm talking about, just click on the forward arrow.

  1. Measuring.  Have you measured accurately?  Taking accurate measurements is always the underpinnings to getting a pattern fit to your body needs.
  2. Marking pattern dots.  Have you marked your appropriate measurement dots accurately?  Make sure to use a fine/medium tipped pencil when transferring the master pattern measurement dots on to your tracing vellum.
  3. Check drawn pattern widths.  Double check the widths of the resulting pattern before adding seam allowances.  Measure the pattern from stitching line to stitching line, adding any relevant segments together.  Make sure to account for the total circumference.  Compare the measurement that the pattern is giving to your actual measurement.  Remember that wearing ease is included in the master pattern.  Check the specific instruction book for ease in the pattern you are drawing.
  4. Accurate seam allowances.  Are the seam allowances 5/8” (1.6cm) wide?  With the Designing Stylus, use the edge of the seam allowance slot that is nearest the outside edge of the Stylus to draw the allowance.  Spot check for accuracy.
  5. Cut with care.  Whether using a rotary cutter or fabric shears, cut carefully maintaining the 5/8” (1.6cm) seam allowance.
  6. Stitch accurately.  Is the stitched seam allowance exactly 5/8” (1.6cm) wide?  If you need to, place a piece of visible tape on the throat plate 5/8” (1.6cm) away from the needle.
  7. Personal ease preferences.  Know how you like your clothes to fit.  The Dress Kit skirt pattern gives 3” (7.6cm) ease in the hip, while the pants pattern gives 2” (5.1cm) hip ease.  Some may find these ease allotments too little or too much.  It’s all a matter of personal preference.

When you change any of these variables, your resulting fit will naturally vary.  Please be aware of these aspects so that when you evaluate the fit of your test garment, these elements will no longer be causing any issues.

What to do? Short Front with Long Back Crotch

I've had a number of ladies in my SFD Pants fitting classes, who have a short front crotch with quite a long back crotch.  It could be due to your body stance or just basically your anatomy - the way you are.  And I've had ladies email with similar situations.

If this happens to be your situation, please make sure you watch this video.  It shows you exactly how to deal with your SFD Pants pattern.
Short Front Crotch in relation to a substantially Long Back Crotch

Test Muslin - How Best to Get into it? Add 5/8" at CF.

Glenda,
I am going to cut fabric for a Sure-Fit Designs Dress Kit Dress Sheath.  What was that you were telling me about adding 5/8” to the Center Front for testing and fitting purposes?

Rebecca,

You need to allow 5/8" on BOTH edges of CF - (CF can no longer be on the fold of the fabric) - you've got to get into it somehow.



See the attached photo.  This woman has added a 5/8" seam to the CF - then she simply stitched on this 5/8" line - so that she new exactly where the 5/8" line is.  Then when you put the dress on, you simply overlap the 5/8" stitching line when it's on your body.  Notice that she has CF pinned closed on this stitching line.



If this doesn't clarify, we can do a quick Skype - I'll show you my pink bodice

Glenda


Rebecca Revisits Her First Failed Sewing Project


I was digging thru my pile of "this doesn't fit - I messed it up" stack of failed experiences and I came upon my first sewing project which I attempted from a Cindy Crawford sewing pattern.  I pulled out the pattern and laid out my messed-up blouse.

NO WONDER I messed this up. Clearly this pattern calls for a stretch knit and I sewed my failed attempt in a tightly woven cotton.  Not to mention that the pattern just does not fit me at all.

Thanks to Glenda and Sure-Fit Designs I have a perfectly fitting body blueprint Bodice which I have drawn from the Dress Kit and with sleeves that fit my large arms.

Of course I still don't know anything about sewing with stretch fabrics, but this too will come.

Tune-Up: Narrow Shoulder to Full Bust

As I further analyze my completed Sure-Fit Designs Dress Kit bodice with the set-in sleeves, I think that the armhole seams could be drafted a little better to give me an even better fit.  My shoulders are narrow and my chest above my bust is flat.  I wouldn't say I have a full bust in that I have a large cup size (I am a B), but my full bust circumference including the across my back, is a lot bigger than my narrow chest.

When I was looking through all of the videos that Sure-Fit Designs offers, I found this  How-To-Video Narrow Shoulder to Full Bust with instructions to check and tune-up my armhole seams.  I am going to definitely try this out.  Even though I don't have a particularly full bust, I think the refinement might be beneficial to the fit of my pattern.

Large Upper Arm Tune-up

I used the instructions from the Sure-Kit Designs How-To Video Lowering the Dress Bodice Underarm - Minor Tune-Up, and the instructions on page 16 of the Sure-Fit Designs Dress Kit Instructions Book to tune-up my sleeve pattern.

I guess I should have read these instructions first, because with my first test bodice the sleeves were very tight since I have large upper arms. So I applied these instructions and widened the sleeve pattern upper arm width. I also lowered the underarm just a bit as this video suggests doing.  Not everyone is going to need to do this, but my test muslin now has sleeves that fit and I can really move, stretch and reach up high. 

My SFD Dress Kit Bodice

Glenda,
Here is a photo of my Sure-Fit Designs Dress Kit Bodice with the set-in sleeves.  The sleeves are a little twisty and when I relax my arms they still feel tight (that is why I cut a slit in the sleeve).  I was trying to see if I could make an adjustment on the top of the sleeve.

All in all I am pleased that I at least put in my first ever set-in sleeve, (Yeah!) but it was really, really difficult. And I think in general that sleeves stink.

I think the problem with sleeves is that they are made sideways to your body, but when you lift your arms above your head your arms point to the front of your body not the side.

Hmmmm arms and sleeves still need to be conquered.  Other than that, I'm pretty please with the fit of the bodice itself.

I Have SET-IN Sleeves!!

You would be so proud of me!!!!  It's a miracle!
Remember my sleeves were way too tight and you recommended that I do the "Large Upper Arm"  tune-up on page 16 of the Sure-Fit Designs Dress Kit.
I studied how to sew a set-in sleeve and then studied the directions for the sleeve tune-up and then I altered my personal bodice blueprint and redrew the sleeve. 

Note to self:  Never, never ever draw on my personal blueprint, but instead trace a copy of it!!! 

I sewed up the bodice and set in the sleeve and I think I did a really good job, especially considering this is my first sleeve sewing experience.  I am very pleased with the results.  I did it!!!  Truly, truly awesome!
Now...my list is:
  • Perfect fit Bodice with sleeve (accomplished)
  • Perfect Sleeveless Bodice  (Almost had it but I altered the blueprint instead of tracing over, so I need to redo this)
  • Perfect Bodice with Kimono Sleeves........I really want to try Short Kimono/ Cap Sleeve on page 18.
  • Pivoting Darts....moving bust dart to add to waist dart....for Kimono sleeve and heading towards a peasant blouse
  • My skirt blueprint is all re-drawn I just have to sew it up
  • And I want to try a Sleeveless Sheath Dress
  • I am also working on my first over-shirt from the Shirt Kit and of course I have questions
CONGRATULATIONS!!!     I really want you to send a photo.  I want to see the sleeve.  I'm sure you did a marvelous job - and for first attempt - very well done!

Your comment about never, never drawing on your finished blueprint is really an excellent 'lesson' to share with everyone.  It's always best to trace a working copy of the blueprint and THEN make your changes. 
Glenda

Design: Asymmetrical Blouse

OOOhhhh!  I really like this Striped Knit Hacci Design from Ashley Stewart.  I really think this is a HOT! Plus Size Design.


This would be so easy to do from the SFD Shirt Kit.  I'll save the image as a reference to help create 'Fashion Leaflet' similar in design.
Glenda

SFD How-To DVD

Glenda, I would not be having to do my second set of personal patterns if I had watched your How-To DVD....The DVD helped enormously and was a really fun experience.  I especially liked the fashion show which beautifully answered my question, "What to do with my Personal Body Blueprint"?

But my favorite part of the DVD was Glenda's demonstration and explanation of how many combinations of different patterns are truly possible with just the SFD Dress Kit...I think the number was 3,150!  Can you even imagine sewing that many patterns in your lifetime?

Wearing Ease in the SFD patterns

What I have discovered is that the personal blueprint patterns drawn from Sure-Fit Designs don't have to be loose to fit. If your measurements are correct, your personal body blueprint pattern will fit with wearing ease automatically built in to the Sure-Fit Designs master patterns.

Generally, the mistakes I have made as a novice sewer is adding too much ease to my personal pattern, which of course was based on my experiences with store bought clothing and commercial paper patterns. It's difficult to get over the mind-set of making sure a pattern will fit "wide hips," "bulging tummy," or "big thighs."

You might want to see and hear what Glenda has to say about ease allowances and the Dress Kit patterns.

Skirt as Big as a House

I have sewn up my test muslin for my skirt which I made from my personal body blueprint.  But when I put it on it was as big as a house...a good ten inches too big!!!  What did I do wrong???

In a case like this a little sleuthing work is needed.  So...now measure the paper pattern. Measure from CF to side seam - MINUS the dart space - then measure CB to side seam MINUS the dart space. Add the 2 measurements together and double it for your entire circumference. This should measure approximately 50" - (with, of course, the dart space eliminated). If it measures close to 50" - then the waist should fit.

Where are 10" extra coming from? If the pattern measures correctly then the fabric can't possibly be that big.  You are welcome to call me - I'm happy to help - maybe verbally we can figure out where the extra is coming from.
Kindly,  Glenda

I have laid out my bodice (which fits really really well and has all darts sewn in place) and my skirt pattern as a one piece dress as shown on the instructions and it really lines up perfectly.  So my mistake is some really dumb beginner mistake in the sewing.  All my seams are really good 5/8".

My waist measurement on the Front Bodice matches the waist measurement on the Front Skirt and as I said the vellum patterns line up almost perfectly.

My muslin test skirt is huge.  I held it up and measured it with a yard stick and one side measured 29" which is a total of 60"  and this was with all seams sewed at 5/8"..........HOLD THE PHONE......SCREAM!!!  I didn't sew in the back darts..........Grrrrrrrrrrr.  And I just checked my Back Skirt Pattern and it was drawn 2 sizes bigger than the Front Skirt Pattern.  OK this accounts for why it doesn't FIT!  I am going to go sit in the corner with my skirt over my head.
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