A shaped Back Shoulder Yoke

Vest Success continued...
In early April, I published a blog called Vest Success.  One of our SFD ladies designed the Reversible Vest (a relatively new SFD downloadable Fashion Leaflet).  This particular lady had a back shoulder dart that she needed to deal with.  She needed the back shoulder dart for her slightly rounded shoulder blades, but didn't want the dart appearing in her vest.  When drawing the vest pattern, she simply transferred this dart into the armscye and the resulting slightly curved seam took care of the dart and she ended up with a yoke detail in the back of her vest.

Because her photos were somewhat dark, I simply outlined the stitching lines that she designed.  Now you can see where the back yoke is.

Not long after this blog was published, another SFD lady asked if I would show you the details for turning the back shoulder dart into a yoke with slightly curved stitching line.  The easiest way for me to do this was to film a short video showing you the process.

First, let's review how to add a back shoulder dart.
Step 1: Draw line A to B as illustrated.  This line should be at a level where the most rounding or protruding fullness is on your back/shoulder blades.  Then draw line C to D as shown.  This line does not have to be at a right angle to A-B, but the angle that you choose will affect the final position of the dart, therefore, it should be at a pleasing angle for your specific body shape.  You may need to sew a couple of tests to make sure you're pleased with the results.

Step 2: Cut from A to B and from C to D, leaving a paper hinge at the armscye point B and at point D on line A-B.

Step 3: Spread the shoulder area of the pattern open as shown always maintaining the paper hinge points.  This will open up a small dart shape in the shoulder seam line and will automatically lengthen CB.  Often people with rounded, protruding shoulder blades also have some rounding at the upper back and this extra length will help the bodice back to sit more comfortably.  Additionally, depending on how rounded your entire back is, you may also want to add a CB seam which is shaped/curved to suit your body contours.

Step 4: The more you open/lengthen CB that results in a wider dart, the more the upper and lower center back line becomes 'jogged'.  To maintain CB on the fold of the fabric, simply draw/true a new CB from the back neck point to the waist point.  Also re-establish a parallel straight of grain marking.  Depending on how accurately you measured your CB waist length and where this length is actually needed, you may now need to shorten CB at the waist edge and gently true from CB to the side seam.

Step 5:  This technique for adding a shoulder dart shouldn't distort the armscye significantly.  However, if the armscye appears to angled at the armscye hinge pivot point, make sure to blend/true to create a smooth curve.

This is what it looks like in 'real life'.

Now, on to changing this back shoulder dart into a back shoulder yoke that is slightly curved.  It really is a simple process.  Please watch this video to see how to accomplish this technique.

Just click on the forward arrow to begin play.  It's a short video and a simple process.  I know you'll find it easy to do.

Kindly,
Glenda...the Good Stitch!

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Skirt Styles to Suit Just You!

In the survey from a couple of weeks ago where I asked what Sure-Fit Designs can do for you to help with your fitting and sewing, a number of ladies asked for information on how to choose the best style of garment for their body shape.

Enter in Inside Out Style and Imogene Lamport.  She does a remarkable job of teaching you what your body shape is and what styles will look best on your frame.  I wouldn't even try to duplicate her expertise when she does such a good job.  I actually introduced Imogene to you a number of months ago, but this is definitely worth repeating, particularly for all our newcomers.

A couple of days ago, her blog post was titled 'The Best Skirt for Your Body Shape'.  I'm going to encourage all of you to take a few minutes to scroll through her blog site...there's more where this came from.

This is an informative blog and as you get into her Body Shapes page, you'll discover all kinds of valuable information on analyzing your body shape and learning what styles look best on it.

She doesn't always talk about specific garment styles for body shapes, but I always find her blogs of value.  If this is a topic of interest to you, her blog is definitely worth following.

Thanks so much, Imogene, for sharing your vast knowledge on this topic.

Kindly,
Glenda...the Good Stitch!

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Fun & Easy Color Blocked T-Shirt

Color blocking is super simple and easy to design into your sewing patterns.  Of course, you all likely know that color blocking is definitely back in fashion.  But do you know where it all began?

It all dates back to a Dutch artist - Pieter Cornelis Mondrian (1872-1944) - nicknamed 'Piet'.  He was one of the principal members of the Neoplasticism art movement.  In 1919 he began producing grid-based paintings for which he became renowned for the rectangular shapes, solid black lines and random placement of primary colors.

In the 1960's, Yves St. Laurent popularized his 'Mondrian' dresses using Piet as his inspiration.

Color blocking has become popular again and of course, you can do this with your SFD patterns.  Creating areas to color block on your patterns is creative and easy to do.  Just start off with Sally Silhouette as your croquis and experiment with where you'd like to draw your style lines for color blocking.

If you don't yet have your copy of Sally Silhouette, you can download her from the Free Stuff page in the SFD Learning Center.  Click Here.

And now there is also a new downloadable Fashion Leaflet for color blocking your new SFD T-Shirt that I introduced to you last week.  There is a nominal cost for this leaflet, but if you read the SFD newsletter from January 12th, you will be able to download this leaflet completely free for a limited time if you use the link that is provided in that newsletter.  It's my 'get busy sewing gift' for you to jump start your 2015 sewing projects.  In addition to this...it could easily be 'Made in a Day'...just another quick, easy and rewarding project.

Have fun and don't forget to send photos when you get yours done!  I'll put together a T-Shirt collage and show off all your work.  Send to info@surefitdesigns.com.

Thanks so much,
Glenda...the Good Stitch!

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T-Shirt Tactics

Everybody loves to wear T-shirts.  For some they are a wardrobe staple - for others they are only occasional wear.  Whatever their place is in your clothing needs, you have choices within the Sure-Fit Designs fitting and designing system as to how you approach this style of garment.

Typically, the T-shirt is relatively close fitting and does not have a bust dart and is sewn from a knit fabric.  The no-bust dart feature does present a problem for you full-busted women.  You all know you will always achieve a superior fit when your pattern has a bust dart.

The Sure-Fit Designs pattern kits provide either the darted bodice pattern from the Dress Kit, or the undarted pattern from the Shirt Kit.  Most of you already know that the Dress Kit bodice has 2 1/2" (6.4 cm) ease in the bust circumference, whereas the Shirt Kit has 5-6" (12.7 - 15.2 cm) ease in the chest circumference.

Which kit to use for your T-shirt?   Since the T-Shirt is usually undarted with a closer fit to the body, you'd use the Dress Kit bodice (with the bust dart).  If you use the Shirt Kit, you'll have a looser fit and a much deeper armscye.

Ah Ha!  In comes my new article, T-Shirt Tactics, where I offer an alternative which uses the Dress Kit bodice and I show you how to remove the dart!  The result offers a fit that is closer to your body, the armscye is not as deep as with the Shirt Kit, and this process generally provides an excellent T-shirt alternative.

Yes I know it doesn't have a bust dart anymore, so you full-busted ladies will inevitably end up with some folding in the armscye that points toward your bust.  And no doubt, the shirt will likely hike up somewhat in the front because your don't have that bust dart shaping your bustline.  But since you are going to be sewing with a forgiving knit fabric, usually these issues are minimized.  But at least, you have 3 great choices now to design your favorite T-shirt with the Sure-Fit Designs patterns.

• Dress Kit bodice with dart

• Shirt Kit pattern - no dart - deeper armscye

• Dress Kit bodice without dart

To download your copy of the T-Shirt Tactics article with instructions to remove the dart, please Click Here, then simply scroll toward the middle of the page where you'll see the link for the .pdf file.

Just for fun and for interest, I finished my T-shirt with a self-fabric 2 1/2" wide band at the hem level, scooped the neck edge 2" all the way around and then filled in with a 1 1/2" self-fabric band.  A small tab was inserted at CF while applying the neck band and finished with a decorative button.

And another great benefit is that it can be 'Made in a Day'!  It's just one more quick project for you.

Give it a try and send me your comments and photos.  When you send your photos, I'll put together a T-Shirt collage...and show off all of your work.  Please send photos to info@surefitdesigns.com.
Enjoy,
Glenda...the Good Stitch!

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Think Beyond Size

Do you realize how irrelevant the term 'size' is when it comes to women's clothing?  In one store you might wear a 'size 8' and in the next store you might need a 'size 12'.  It all depends on the manufacturer and and the standards that they use for the expression of their clothing.  And if you have to choose the larger 'size', psychologically this could have a negative impact because you've had to choose the larger size.

It's a very provocative question isn't it when someone asks 'What size are you?'  This can mean many different things to different people.  So chuck those labels out the door and just be who you are!

Isn't it great that with the Sure-Fit Designs fitting system, size is totally a non-issue.  I've had many ladies email to tell me how wonderful it is to finally be liberated from even thinking about what size they might be.

Think 'measurement' not 'size'!  Many of you know that the Sure-Fit Designs master patterns offer measurement ranging from 28" (71 cm) to 62" (157.5 cm).  I know that in this photo you can't see all the measurement dots, but in every strategic location, there are a series of dots with the measurement numbers (both in imperial and metric) beside the dot.  All you do is mark in your unique measurement dots, then connect your dots together with the SFD Designing Stylus.  It's a great tool to use for drawing your personalized body blueprint with all the SFD master patterns.

Women have such unique shapes and Sure-Fit Designs provides such a great alternative to achieving the absolutely best fit for your body the way it is now.  Enjoy being who you are and the way you are right now.  Sewing well-fitting garments can only enhance how feel about yourself.  When your clothing fits...you simply feel better.  Enjoy this new-found freedom.

If you're new to Sure-Fit Designs and this blog, I'd encourage you to click on over to the SFD Learning Center Video Library to see the actual process of how to blueprint your body shape.

So as we say goodbye to 2014 and welcome in 2015 let's simply say 'adios' to all those stigmatizing labels and just be who we are.

Happy New Year,

Glenda...the Good Stitch!
(PS) Color blocking is coming!

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Darts and Side Seams: - Perfecting the Dart

I may have talked about this topic before - perfecting the dart extension point and the effect on the side seam.  But even if I have, it's well worth talking about again.  And now there are photos to help explain the situation and what happens.

Depending on two factors, 1) the width of the dart (A, B, C etc), and 2) the angle of the dart - it's position on the side seam in relation to your apex position, both can affect the amount of dart extension that is required for it to properly sew in straight with the side seam cut edge.

If the dart extension isn't long enough, it means that when the dart is folded in the correct finished location, the seam allowance edges won't meet when stitching the side seams.

Here's what it looks like if it's not 'perfected'.  The above photo shows the 'inside' of the bodice pattern.  The photo below shows the 'right' side of the pattern.

Even though I demo and teach how to 'perfect' the dart during the Fit & Sew Retreats, I've seen ladies skip this step (easy to forget when there's so much happening in this workshop) and then pull on the edge of the dart until it does meet the side seam when sewing front to back bodice.  Then, when the bodice is on your body, it will create a pull (drag) line from that lower dart leg toward the side and center of the bodice.  (Sorry I don't have a photo of the drag line...I accidentally deleted it when clearing the images from the camera).

But the next photo shows you how the drag line has disappeared when the seam is opened up and the dart extension point is released.

If this happens to you, it's easy to confuse this drag line as a 'fit' issue and not the 'pattern' issue that it is.  When the dart is 'perfected' properly, the drag line goes away.

The Adjust-A-Bust template is a great tool for getting the correct width of dart, but it's impossible on this template to provide all the possible scenarios for the dart's extension point.  It's always best to perfect the dart when drawing your bodice blueprint.

 Here's a short video tutorial on 'Perfecting the Dart'.   Even though I'm showing transferring the dart to the lower side seam location, the process of folding the dart in position and cutting along the seam allowance cutting edge, is still the same no matter the location of the dart.  You may end up with a really wide and long dart extension, but that can be trimmed out later.

You'll also find written directions for Perfecting the Dart on page 8 of the Dress Kit Instruction Book - 5th Edition.

Kindly,
Glenda...the Good Stitch!

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Pretty Princess - Part 1

Everybody loves the princess line design line and so they should. This bodice design line (if fitted properly to the position and fullness of your bust) is extremely flattering. The design lines are visually slenderizing because they are vertical.

I've previously discussed princess line designing and there are instructions on page 32 of the Dress Kit Instruction book but still I receive questions on how to incorporate more waistline shaping, how to do the princess line in the back of the bodice and how to draw the princess line that is offset more toward the underarm and that has a little portion of bust fitting dart remaining.

To help you better understand princess lines and how to design them, I've added 4 more instructional videos (completely free).  (P.S. If you haven't been to the SFDLearningCenter in awhile, there are a number of new videos on a variety of topics.)

In this blog, I'll review the two options for princess line placement - either in the shoulder line or going into the armscye. The easiest one to design and sew is the princess line into the shoulder line. The armscye princess seam is only slightly more challenging to sew, but not to design, and that's because you'll have two opposing curves to sew together. And...the larger your bust, and the lower the armscye curvature, the greater the seamline curves will be and hence a little more challenging to sew together.

This blouse features the princess line that is designed up to the shoulder line.

This video shows the basic process of designing a princess line into the shoulder seam.

                                          

This video shows the basic process of designing a princess line into the armscye.

Next week I'll show you more in-depth detail on how to shape this princess line through your midriff to your waist level.

Kindly,

Glenda...the Good Stitch!

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Just a Reminder...

Many of you ask for help. And all of you know, or should know by now, that I am more than willing to offer input, suggestions and solutions for whatever your issue happens to be.

But...I do need to remind you that sometimes your verbal description of what is going on can be 'Greek' to me. You all know how it is so easy to mis-interpret what someone has written.

A picture really is worth a thousand words.

What am I talking about??? When you ask for help via email, please include a photo (or photos) of whatever your question is about. That way I have a better opportunity to evaluate your situation, figure out what you've done (some times I can...some times I can't) and offer suggestions.

There is a page on our websites dedicated entirely to our Customer Support. If you haven't yet run across this page, please click here - Customer Support.

If your question happens to be about the fit of your body blueprint, please make sure you have watched this video first.

Even though I'm demonstrating on a Pants pattern, the same concepts and general cautions also apply to all the Sure-Fit Designs master patterns. How you've drawn your pattern is extremely important.

In my fitting classes, I see all kinds of ways and attitudes about what someone thinks is accurate and how fastidious they are in taking care that the dots and connecting lines are accurate....and then I see others who also think the same thing, but the pattern reflects less attention to detail. This same lack of attention to detail is often reflected in their sewing technique, which of course can change the finished result. Please take your time. So many of you know that the pattern drawing process is truly easy to do and doesn't take much time, but you also know that attention to detail will affect the resulting fit.

And, if you are wondering about a particular style or design or process and wondering where the information is found within the Sure-Fit Designs system, please, please, please download this free Sure-Fit Designs INDEX (which was compiled by Sara Gray - a SFD customer).

Just go to FREE STUFF and scroll down the page. You'll see it. Sara did a remarkable job of indexing where all the information is found within the SFD fitting system materials. It's easy to read and easy to find what you're looking for. Please look here first. Then if you can't find what you're seeking, email me for help.

And last, but certainly not least, if you are wanting help with fitting suggestions or how to design something, you might likely just find the answer in the SFD Video Library - http://www.sfdlearningcenter.com/Video_Library.html or in the Article Library http://www.sfdlearningcenter.com/Article_Library.html

Each month I try to add at least one more video or one more article. I don't always have time to announce these in the newsletter (or anywhere else for that matter). But it really is worth your time to check back to these resources regularly to see if anything is new.

Thanks so much for continuing to be a loyal Sure-Fit Designs user and customer. I truly do enjoy hearing from you.




Kindly,

Glenda

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Pam's Amazing Artistry

Pam Perry (photo inset bottom left) is a Sure-Fit Designs customer, a professional make-up artist and photographer.

Lucky Pam - her husband gifted her with the SFD Works Combo and she's gone to town! The photo above shows one of her first SFD bodices. Pam sews the clothes and accessories for her photo shoots and has always used commercial patterns, but that's all changed now with Sure-Fit Designs. In the above photo, she used the basic Dress Kit bodice and admits she used a commercial pattern peplum...but redesigned it to her liking.

She commented, 'I'm loving the (SFD) kits and extras and though I've typically used commercial patterns before, I'm loving the fitting and designing! I'm so excited to make more!!'

And more she did. In this next photo, Pam is working up a mesh top from the bodice pattern, minus the darts since it's stretchy fabric. She's experimenting with studded epaulettes and leather strapping.

And now, the finished outfit on her very trendy and uniquely different model.

 Pink is sure pretty!

This is Pam's next SFD adventure. The fabric she used is called 'costume leather' purchased at Joann Fabrics. Clothing designs don't need to be complicated when using an unusual fabric on an attractive model. The side bust dart has been transferred up to the shoulder, the new cap sleeve styling is from the 5th edition Dress Kit instruction book - pg. 24, and a simple scooped neckline is all it took. And let's not forget Pam's make-up artistry and fabulous photography!

Pam's artistry and display of her work can be found at:

www.PamPerryPhotography.com

and

www.PamPerryHair.com

Thank for sharing your accomplishments Pam!

Kindly,

Glenda

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The Double Welt Pocket

The welt part of a welt pocket is the narrow strip of fabric that forms the decorative and functional upper and lower lip of the opening for the pocket. Welt pockets can have a single or a double welt lip. These directions will be for a double welt. As with many construction techniques, there are many different ways to do most jobs. This is just one way that seems to works well.

Though there will be a pocket bag inside, the finished double welt pocket looks very much like a large bound buttonhole.

1. Mark pocket position on right side of fabric with your choice of marking method - tailor's chalk, tracing carbon or machine basting would work.

2. Cut the welt strips 1" (2.5 cm) wide for a finished 1/4" (6 mm) wide welt and at least 2" (5.1 cm) longer than the desired pocket opening.

3. Fold welt in half, raw/cut edges together. Place the welt on the right side of the garment. Place the fold of the welt toward the outside and the cut edge is on marked pocket position.

4. Stitch down the middle of each welt. Backstitch at both ends. Lines of stitching must be perfectly straight and parallel. If they're not, this won't turn out properly - start again!

5. Cut the pocket opening. Cut down the middle stopping ½” – ¾” (1.3-1.9 cm) before end of pocket. Clip diagonally to backstitched points. Keep diagonal triangle longer, it’s easier to work with. 

6. Turn welts toward inside, carefully press. The welts should just fill the opening with the folded edge of the welts just touching one another.

7. Inside pocket bag - cut the pocket bag the width of the welt plus double the depth you want the pocket to be.

8. On the inside, begin by stitching the (upper) edge of the pocket bag to the cut/raw edge of the top welt. With right sides together, begin on the welt extension, then as you stitch, you'll also sew through the fashion fabric on exactly the previous stitching. Be careful not to catch the triangle in this stitching.

9. a) Fold so that the lower welt is positioned to expose the cut edge of the welt and the bag is "down".

9. b) Then fold the remaining edge pocket bag up to meet the cut edge of the welt thereby covering up the pocket opening hole. Flip over so that you can see where to stitch, then sew beginning on the welt extension through the fashion fabric toward the other end.

10. Fold the fashion fabric back to expose the welt extension and the triangular wedge tab. Stitch across the triangle flush to the body of the garment, stitching through the welt extensions and pocket bag.

11. Trim pocket bag width as desired. Then sew sides of pocket bag together including welt extensions.  

If you've never sewn a double welt pocket, I highly recommend creating a sample from fabric that is lightweight, yet has a relatively crisp 'hand' so that when you press the fold in the welts and when you turn the welts to the inside they will press nice and flat.

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