Dealing with an Asymmetrical Body

Do you have asymmetrical body issues?  Very few people are truly perfect and symmetrical from one side to the other of their bodies.  Often a leg is slightly longer, or a shoulder might be sloped more than the other.

Ask yourself these questions:
1. How severe is the asymmetry?
2. Does it affect the look of my clothes on my body?
3. Should I make the effort to change my pattern?

If there are just slight differences from one side to the other, generally we do nothing, as it's simply not enough difference to affect the hang of the garment on our body.

However, if your garments hang crooked or form obvious drag lines toward the high or low point, then you will likely want to make asymmetrical adjustments to your pattern.

This typically entails creating a right and left side pattern that reflect the height and width dimensions for that part of your body.  Once the change is done for both sides (if necessary), they will generally then need to meet in the middle - typically CF and/or CB.  Once you've created a right and left side for your pattern and you're happy with the muslin test fitting shell, then you can use this pattern for future style changes.

You will always need to mark which is right and left side, and which side is going to be cut 'right side up'.  It's definitely more effort, but well worth it when your clothes hang better on your body.

In some instances, like a high/low shoulder, sometimes you can get away with a temporary solution of adding a shoulder pad to the low side.  This then will give you a more balanced look, particularly in jacket construction, and offers and easy solution.  Always try to evaluate your options before doing major pattern adjustments.

You will find asymmetrical high/low hip adjustment directions on page 17 of the Dress Kit Instruction Book.  The same basic concept applies to the waist line level of your pants pattern.  If you'd like to see a short video regarding the asymmetrical hip heights, watch this video:

Often times, you will also need to make circumference tune-ups as well since one side can be wider as well as longer.  Then you definitely need to create a right and left side pattern - for both the front and back of your skirt or pants.

Here's and example of pants that are now hanging fairly well on a definite asymmetrical body.  The waist line is substantially tipped forward and the right buttock is definitely higher and fuller than the left.  With persistence, and the creation of right and left side patterns for both front and back, these pants are now hanging smoothly.

Here are the happy customer's comments:

I finally have a great fitting pair of pants, thanks to the Sure-Fit Design system and the incredible assistance I received from Glenda.  In my opinion, she is the star of the system!  My original draft was easy to develop and certainly fit me better than any " straight from the envelope" pattern I've ever tried.  But my "great fit" is entirely the result of endless patience and guidance from Glenda, addressing my severely tilted waist, uneven hips and various other figure issues.  Over the course of about three weeks, we exchanged many emails working through all of the problems.  Her service is exemplary, and I highly encourage anyone with problems fitting pants to give Sure-Fit Designs a try!
KK, Sew Fittingly You, Victor, NY 

Happy Sewing!

Glenda...The Good Stitch

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Comfortable Culottes

Yes, that's right, culottes are back.  Some never really stopped wearing them, simply because they are so comfortable, but now they are officially back.

 I first read this article in the Style & Travel section of the Wall Street Journal (by Cheryl Lu-Lien Tan), but in doing research about culottes and their comeback, my guess is that it's appeared in other publications.  She says that they're back in a big way for the first time since the 1980's.  You all know that if we wait long enough, the fashion cycle just goes round and round.

This style typically features a  wide, and often voluminous leg that extends from a cinched waistline.  The hem can be anywhere from an inch below the knee to a couple of inches above the ankle.  What makes them so comfortable is that for a really good fit that doesn't bind and pull in the crotch, the crotch point needs to be dropped and extended.  The hang of the leg improves, they won't crawl up between your thighs, and they can give the look of a drapy skirt.

The photo below shows culottes that I designed and sewed for an article featured in Dressmaking with Stitches (an Australian publication).  Of course, the cross-over wrap blouse is also an SFD creation designed and sewn from the Dress Kit.

What to consider when wearing culottes?  Well obviously your height and shape make a difference.  Here are 5 tips that I'll share with you from the article.

• Shorter women will no doubt need heels (shoes or boots) with culottes; taller ladies can wear flats, sandals or fancy sneakers.

• Keep the top slimmed down if you have particularly voluminous legs.

• For evening wear, choose a dressier fabric like silk, or drapy polyesters.

• High-waisted culottes are the most flattering; low-waisted versions can make you look short legged.

• For fall and winter, turtlenecks and knee-high boots work best.

• Steer clear of fabrics that are too stretchy or clingy (such as jersey).

Here's a few of the featured culottes and though I'm not excited about the ones with the hemline boarder trim, they do show you alternative examples.

From InsideOutStyleBlog.com (Imogen Lamport) (who I've recommended many times for dressing for your body shape), she's just written a recent blog on how to dress and accessorize when wearing culottes.  Make sure you take a look at her blog since she offers lots of great photos and excellent accessorizing alternatives. (PS - I should also mention that Sure-Fit Designs is not associated with InsideOutStyleBlog in an way either for personal or business relationships.  I simply happen to believe that Imogen does an excellent job of all the information she presents on her blog).

And, aren't we lucky that with SFD, we don't have to rely on ill-fitting ready-to-wear.  We can sew our own and know they'll fit properly.  Fashion Leaflet #2 gives you all the details you need to design your own from your SFD Pants pattern.  Click Here.

You can choose this version with a 'gaucho' style of leg treatment, or the directions will also tell you how to add a pleat that drapes directly out of center front.  Either way, you win with comfort and fashion.

Kindly,
Glenda...the Good Stitch!

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Best Pants Styles for your Body Shape

I've recommended InsideOutStyle blog to you a couple of times...and here is a good reason why.  When you're looking for information on what styles look best on your body shape, Imogene Lamport, from InsideOutStyle, is the lady to ask.

 Here's a great and very informative chart on how to recognize what your body shape is and what style of pants would suit you best.

If you'd like to read more about how to analyze your shape, please click through to this page.
And from there, you know how easy it is to get the best fit possible when drawing and designing it yourself from your SFD pants body blueprint.

Aren't you glad you don't have to rely on ready-to-wear to supply you with well-fitting clothing?

Kindly,
Glenda...the Good Stitch!

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Sew...What's New?

Introducing the 2015 Face-Lift!

Many of you have asked what's new in 2015 editions of the Sure-Fit Designs Kits.  First, please rest assured, that with the exception of the Shirt Kit Master Patterns, all of your other Master Patterns in the Dress, Pants and Children's Kits have NOT changed.  They are still the same great-fitting patterns we've offered you over the years.

So let's take a look at what is different.  First, we've gone to a full-color envelop for packaging all the Kits.
DRESS KIT

The Dress Kit Instruction book is now the 6th edition.  Within this instruction book, all of the technical art, that is how to draw off these master patterns to create your body blueprint, has all been updated for even greater clarity.  One new fashion design instruction for the 'S'-curved neckline blouse was added.  Due to expanded technical illustrations and the new design, the book went from 52 to 56 pages.

The Master Patterns and Dress Kit templates have NOT changed.

If you want to purchase just the 6th edition Dress Kit Instruction book, please click here.




PANTS KIT

The Pants Kit Instruction book is now the 5th edition.  Within this instruction book, all of the technical art, that is how to draw off these master patterns to create your body blueprint, has all been updated for even greater clarity.

The Pants Master Patterns have NOT changed.

If you want to purchase just the 5th edition Pants Kit Instruction book, please click here.






SHIRT KIT

The entire 5th edition Shirt Kit has changed substantially.  The Master Patterns are totally updated - meaning they no longer have seam allowances on them.  They are now consistent with all the other SFD Master Patterns, where once you have drawn your body blueprint pattern, you will now ADD the 5/8" (1.6 cm) allowance.  The Shirt Kit accessory pieces now include a flat collar and woman's cuff along with all the other collar and pocket shapes.  The instruction book, by necessity, has all new technical drawings showing exactly how to draw these new master patterns.  All the fashion art has been totally updated and offers new designing suggestions.  The book has gone from 20 to 28 pages.

If you want to purchase the 5th edition Shirt Kit, please click here.

CHILDREN'S KIT

The Children's Kit Instruction book is now the 5th edition.  Within this instruction book, all of the technical art, that is how to draw off these master patterns to create your body blueprint, has all been updated for even greater clarity.  All of the fashion art has changed and been updated.  There are a lot of fun, new ideas for sewing children's clothing.  The book has gone from 32 to 36 pages.

The Children's Master Patterns have NOT changed.

If you want to purchase just the 5th edition Children's Kit Instruction book, please click here.




MEN'S PANTS INSTRUCTIONAL PACKAGE

The Men's Pants Instructional package is now the 5th edition.  Within this instruction book, all of the technical art, that is how to draw off these master patterns to create your body blueprint, has all been updated for even greater clarity.  The fashion art has changed and been updated.  The Men's Pants instructions have always utilized the ladies' Pants Kit Master Patterns as the basis for drawing the men's pants.  Nothing has changed in that regard.

If you want to purchase the 5th edition Men's Pants Instructional Package, please click here.




HOW-TO DVD

Finally, the Sure-Fit Designs introductory DVD has been updated.   This DVD offers the basics for getting started wth the Sure-Fit Designs system of pattern fitting and designing.
It consists of 2 DVD's and offers 3hr 45min of clear, concise instruction for drawing the Dress, Pants, Shirt and now includes drawing off all patterns in the Children's Kit.  Additionally you'll see how to measure for the man's pants as well as a discussion on drawing the pattern.  If you want to purchase just the new How-To DVD, please click here.

Limited Time 'Bundle' Special
If you are interested in updating your SFD kits/supplies, we're offering a Limited Time Special for all of the above items.  Receive a 15% discount when each of the above are ordered in a 'Bundle'.  Please Click Here.

Let's take a look at some of the new design ideas and fashion art in both the Children's and Shirt Kit.

(Sorry the art isn't all laid out evenly.  I have a dickens of a time with blogger getting things positioned where I'd like them to be.)

I hope you all will enjoy the new SFD look and instruction books.

As always, I thank you for your ongoing support.
Kindly,
Glenda...the Good Stitch! 

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A BIG Thank you!

  What's in the blog?

1. A big, big thank you!
2. Narrowing the Pants Leg
3. Your favorite sewing notion

A Great Big Thanks

Glenda the Good Stitch is saying many, many thanks to all of you who took the time to complete the survey questions from last week.  Wow!  Did you ever provide lots of food for thought and great topics for the Good Stitch to discuss in the coming weeks and months.

I generally don't repeat blog information very often, but we've had an influx of new SFD followers, and obviously they don't all know what you might know.

Narrowing the Pants Leg

One respondent asked about the leg width of the SFD Pants pattern.  She said that due to her larger hip circumference, when the pants pattern was said and done, she felt the leg width was too wide.  Even though the leg width doesn't grade out as wide as was needed for the hip circumference, for her height, she wanted the leg narrower.  Personal preference comes into play her, as some ladies might say the leg width was just fine.

So here's a video showing you how to narrow the leg.  It's very simple to do as long as you keep the amount removed basically the same on the inseam and side seam.

I often get asked how long the pant length should be.  First, it all depends on the height of heel you'll be wearing with that particular style of pants.  Generally, the higher the heel height the longer the pant length. 

In addition to heel height, you also need to think about hem circumference.  Here's a little rule of thumb for the length and circumference of the hem:  The skinnier/narrower the width of the pants leg (like in skinny jeans), the shorter the pant length should likely be.  The wider the circumference of the pant hem (as in flared leg pants), the longer the pant leg should likely be.

Once again, for those of you how are relatively new to Sure-Fit Designs and may not be aware of all the educational resources we offer, make sure you spend some time in the SFD Learning Center Video Library.

Your Most Favorite and Useful Sewing Notion??

And on a totally different topic, please use the comment box below to tell me the most important (sewing) notion you'd simply never want to be without when garment sewing.

Thanks so much,
Glenda...the Good Stitch!

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Can you believe this??

Can you believe this...jumpsuits are back again!?!?

This news article is from a recent Wall Street Journal newspaper (10-16-14).  I could hardly believe my eyes.  I realize the WSJ isn't exactly the hippest fashion authority, but for the last 2 - 3 years they have been expanding their reach to women readers and now regularly have fashion articles in their Style & Travel section.

As Elizabeth Holmes says, 'The jumpsuit, the former territory of toddlers, auto mechanics and clowns, is becoming what was once unthinkable - and item women will buy.  Bloomingdale's has a "jumpsuits and rompers" category on its website.  Neiman Marcus and Net-a-Porter give the style similar play.  Contemporary online retailer Shopbop offers more than 350 choices, from rompers for less than $75 to designer jumpsuits selling for several thousand dollars.  Retailers and designers are heralding the "all in one" as the jumpsuit/romper is also know, as an alternative to the perennially popular dress.  Many Spring 2015 collections, which wrapped up earlier this month, were an ode to the 1970's, the jumpsuit heyday.'

Says a NY-based designer, Rebecca Taylor, "I thought it was a trend but I actually think it is a staple now".  She has added more jumpsuits to her recent collections.

If you're leaning in this direction, it is so easy to design your own well-fitting jumpsuit with Sure-Fit Designs.  Years ago, I added this design and how to directions into the SFD Children's Kit.

The basic premise is that you will be joining your pants pattern, from your SFD Pants Kit, together with either your bodice (from the SFD Dress Kit) or your SFD Shirt pattern.  What you need to remember is that you must leave at least 1" of ease at the waist line.  This is your lengthwise ease.  Otherwise, you won't be able to sit while wearing it.  Depending on your frame and figure, you might want to increase this amount to 2 to 3 inches.

The only thing we need now is a trap door.  Taking a trip to the ladies room becomes a little inconvenient when you need to almost disrobe to use the facilities.

Mine is sewn with a crinkled polyester.  The shirt (kit) top, from the SFD Shirt Kit, has a double-breasted front opening with a contrasting fabric facing.   You'll notice that the cuffs are piped with the red contrasting fabric.  PS - this fabric travels so well.  It literally never shows a wrinkle.

These next 2 jumpsuits were designed by Kiya Tomlin - a Pittsburg, PA designer.  These romper/jumpsuits were 2 of her first SFD projects.

Comments welcome!  I'm sure some of you will love 'em and others would never dream of going back!  All is good.

Kindly,
Glenda...the Good Stitch!

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Cropped Leg Pants Continued

Remember last week I showed you the easy jeans-style inset pocket?  Well this week I must do a quick review of the seam down the center of the back pant leg.  Even though I typically don't put this seam down the back leg of my pants pattern, I decided to for these cropped leg pants.

This seam really can make a big difference to the fit.  For those of you with a flat butt or for the larger backside in relation to relatively thin legs, this seam is a life-saver!  Team that up with a horizontal fish-eye dart and you've got a winner.

Now...once the seam is down the center of the back pants leg, then I also incorporated a small horizontal fish-eye dart.

Here's a close-up.

 

I think you can see the seam a little better in this close-up.  The fabric has kind of a waffle-like texture and honestly, the seam just simply gets lost.

Once you've refined your personal pants blueprint to include this seam and the horizontal fish-eye dart, just use your pattern over and over again.  Two extra seams takes no time at all to sew.  Just change the style of waist edge treatment, the opening details, width of leg and finished length - they all will give you satisfaction.

I should mention that because this was a stretch-woven fabric, I chose to finish the waist with 2" (5 cm) wide elastic.  They are totally pull-on because the fabric had enough stretch to pull up over my hips.  Actually, this pattern is a combination of the yoga/travel/comfort pants from Pants that Mix n Multiply and the easy jeans-style inset pocket from your SFD Pants Kit instruction book.

Here's the video on how to draw the horizontal fish-eye dart in the back leg of your pants pattern.
It's not too long.  Please take a look if you haven't watched it before.

If you so choose, when you're sewing this center leg seam, leave a 4" or 5" slit/vent open at the hem level.  Yes, you are emphasizing the seam, but now the design all looks like an intended variation.

Have fun and enjoy the fit!

Kindly,
Glenda...the Good Stitch!

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