Cropped Leg Pants Continued

Remember last week I showed you the easy jeans-style inset pocket?  Well this week I must do a quick review of the seam down the center of the back pant leg.  Even though I typically don't put this seam down the back leg of my pants pattern, I decided to for these cropped leg pants.

This seam really can make a big difference to the fit.  For those of you with a flat butt or for the larger backside in relation to relatively thin legs, this seam is a life-saver!  Team that up with a horizontal fish-eye dart and you've got a winner.

Now...once the seam is down the center of the back pants leg, then I also incorporated a small horizontal fish-eye dart.

Here's a close-up.

 

I think you can see the seam a little better in this close-up.  The fabric has kind of a waffle-like texture and honestly, the seam just simply gets lost.

Once you've refined your personal pants blueprint to include this seam and the horizontal fish-eye dart, just use your pattern over and over again.  Two extra seams takes no time at all to sew.  Just change the style of waist edge treatment, the opening details, width of leg and finished length - they all will give you satisfaction.

I should mention that because this was a stretch-woven fabric, I chose to finish the waist with 2" (5 cm) wide elastic.  They are totally pull-on because the fabric had enough stretch to pull up over my hips.  Actually, this pattern is a combination of the yoga/travel/comfort pants from Pants that Mix n Multiply and the easy jeans-style inset pocket from your SFD Pants Kit instruction book.

Here's the video on how to draw the horizontal fish-eye dart in the back leg of your pants pattern.
It's not too long.  Please take a look if you haven't watched it before.

If you so choose, when you're sewing this center leg seam, leave a 4" or 5" slit/vent open at the hem level.  Yes, you are emphasizing the seam, but now the design all looks like an intended variation.

Have fun and enjoy the fit!

Kindly,
Glenda...the Good Stitch!

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Made in a Day!

WELCOME...Made in a Day!

I'm opening up a new page in this blog called Made in a Day.  You'll see this page on the top navigation bar immediately to the right of the Home button. The garments you'll see featured are ones that could generally be easily made in a day.

I know some of you sew faster than others.  I know we often have unforeseen 'oopses' that take longer than we wish they would to correct.  And I know that many of you due to family and work commitments don't have a full day to devote to any project, much less a sewing project.  But all things considered, the projects you'll see will all be ones that could be made in a day under ideal circumstances.

Simple to design...simple to sew...that's the objective.  There are all kinds of designs already offered within the Sure-Fit Designs instructional materials and information that would fall into this category.  So for those of you who are either new to sewing or new to designing and sewing your own garments, these suggestions would be excellent starting options.

Sometimes there might be a Fashion Leaflet that shows you how to design/sew the item.  Sometimes the project will already be featured in one of the kit instruction books or in one of the designing books (Pants that Mix n Multiply or Beyond Bodice Basics or Sew Sensational Shirts).  Sometimes I might have produced a video for your instructions.  Other times, it might just be instructions within the blog.  One way or the other, you should be able to access enough information to make the project.

You'll be able to recognize the project by the new logo 'Made in a Day'.

I'd love to hear what you think of this idea, so please use the comment box below and let me know what you think.

And for those of you who have your own blog, please feel free to share this SFD 'Made in a Day' page with them...the more the merrier!

Kindly,
Glenda...the Good Stitch!
P.S.  I'd love to know what sewing projects you've made in a day (or ones that would fall into this category).  And I'd love to see your photos.

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Tying it all Together

Sometimes it's difficult for some of you to visualize taking an idea from 'here' and mixing it with an instruction from 'there', then adding a little something extra from 'where'. As so many of you know, the Sure-Fit Designs system is not just a fitting system. It also offers all kinds of written instructions and video information on not just fitting, but on designing with your body blueprint (sloper) once you have it completed.

For those of you who follow this Sure-Fit Designs blog, you know that the last few blogs have been on pocket types, applications and sewing technique. As I was preparing the sample photos on drawing and stitching the double welt pocket, I also happened to be at our local JoAnn's (and almost one and only fabric store in Eugene, Or) I came across this novelty stretch bottom weight. I loved it immediately and thought of pants with a welt pocket in the back.

Next step was tying it all together. What style of pants did I want? Since the fabric had about 3 - 4% Spandex, even though it was a woven fabric, I knew it would give when wearing. Skinny came to mind. Jeans came to mind. But I didn't want traditional jeans with the fly front and typical pockets. I wanted to show you the welt pocket.

Here's what I tied together:

My jeans pattern - since wearing ease had already been removed. (Jeans: Behind the Scenes on DVD)

Style #1 - Flared Leg Pants - Elasticized Waist edge from Pants that Mix n Multiply. Though I didn't want flared legs. I wanted skinny all the way to the hem. What I wanted was the side seam invisible zipper and the elastic turned over waist edge.

Blog instructions for the Double Welt Pocket (from last week).

Now for the finished photos:

The double welt pocket.

The invisible zipper and elastic waist edge.

The finished ensemble:

Brown/black leopard-skin patterned fabric for the pants. I guess they could have been tighter but considering I never wear anything skin tight they suited my preferences...and they're totally comfortable. The blouse and jacket is from the SFD Shirt Kit pattern. The blouse has a shawl collar. You'll find directions for this collar on page 44 of the Dress Kit Instruction book. The jacket has a lapel collar and is sewn from a cotton chintz. I love this classic jacket! I've worn it for years and it still looks fine. That's one thing about choosing classic designs - good, bad or boring... they go forever. Remember Chanel...the Chanel jacket...they're still selling it...and you're still sewing it. Yeah!!! for classic designs.
Kindly,
Glenda
PS. I'm going to sew another top for these pants.  I've got the fabric.  It's a really nice cool (colored) brown sport knit.  Now I just need to find the time!

Next installment...I found the time to design and sew the Asymmetrical Pleated T-Shirt from the SFD Shirt Kit.  The directions for this comfy T-Shirt are found in the downloadable Fashion Leaflets.  Click Here if you're interested.

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Sure-Fit Designs Sew Along & Customer Comments

Just in case you haven't visited PatternReview in a while, there's a group of women who are starting a Sure-Fit Designs Sew Along.  If you're interested in participating here's the link - http://sewing.patternreview.com/SewingDiscussions/topic/75069

It should be fun and motivating for you to get together with others around the world as you discuss and work through your SFD sewing projects.

When you're done, make sure to take photos and send to - info@surefitdesigns.com

Now is a good time to share with you a lovely letter I received a couple of days ago.  I sincerely appreciate receiving your comments.

Dear Glenda,

I cannot thank you enough; you've opened up a new, exciting, fun world of sewing for me.  I've been designing & sewing in every spare moment I have over the last month; every project is filled with learning and I'm really loving the design process. Especially discovering how the same sort of design works with different fabrics and how the looks change.

It was a bit intimidating taking the SFD path initially - I would have described myself as an enthusiastic but basic home sewer, with next to no fitting experience and certainly no design experience at all. As a "mature" woman my body has changed from it's easy to fit youthful proportions and standard patterns just didn't work for me so I gave up sewing for over 20 years.   I'm ecstatic I took the plunge into SFD, because the SFD system is easy to use, the results are rewarding, and the creativity from the system is endless. Much much better than simply buying a standard pattern & (for me inevitably) being disappointed. Your internet resources are exhaustive, and the customer gallery/blogs are very inspiring.

Now that I've started sewing again & my confidence is building, I'm really realizing there are no sewing mistakes, only sewing learnings. I love my 'unpicker' now, and understand that fit will probably change a little with every garment so I just enjoy the process involved to get the design the way I want it.

The SFD pattern system is awesome; easy to follow, and inspiring to use. It's so easy to create design after design without having to troll through pattern books & pay for patterns that may or may not work. The fit is always great, and every project gets better & better.

You are probably overwhelmed by positive emails & pictures from home dressmakers much more accomplished than I am. And since you've said you're looking forward to pictures, I'll send you a few via separate emails.

What a great system!
Sigrid, Sunshine Coast, Queensland, Australia

PS - You can see Sigrid's been quite busy sewing up an SFD 'storm'.

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Does Sure-Fit Designs Give Sewing Directions?

Help...How do I sew this together?  I often am asked if Sure-Fit Designs™ provides sewing instruction steps.  Beginners using Sure-Fit Designs™ are particularly concerned that they might not know how to sew the garment together and what should happen first if they design the pattern themselves.

Even though Sure-Fit Designs™ is primarily a fitting and designing system, there are sewing construction steps provided for specific designs in the Dress, Pants, Shirt, Children’s kits and in the Men’s Instructional Package.  This resource guide is posted as an article on the website - www.sfdLearningCenter.com, but I know some of you reading here don't typically go to the website for information.  

So here’s where you’ll find the information and though construction illustrations are not always provided, the instructions tell you what to do and in what order.

Pants Kit:

• How to sew basic pants together is provided on page 11 of the Pants Kit Instruction book

• Sewing jeans is provided on page 23.

• Sewing an elastic waist is on page 24.

• Inserting a pocket opening (eliminates the need for a zipper and is extremely comfortable) is on page 25.

• Inserting an inseam pocket is on page 25.

• Sewing a zipper fly front is on page 27.

Dress Kit:

·        Bodice sewing construction steps are found on the following video tutorials.

D.8.a Pt. 1-Fabric Choice/Layout/Cutting

D.8.b Pt. 2-How to Sew and Press Darts

D.8.c Pt. 3-Sewing Shoulder & Side Seams

D.8.d Pt. 4-How to Set in the Sleeve

D.8.e Pt. 5-Staystitching/Pressing/Fit Evaluation

Shirt Kit:

·       General instructions for sewing the shirt are on page 13 of the Shirt Kit Instruction book.

·       Sewing robes are found on page 17.

• Easy technique for stitching a Shirt Collar and Collar Stand

• Stitching a traditional Shirt Placket

• Stitching a continuous lap Shirt Placket

 

Children’s Kit:

• General instructions for sewing elastic back pants are found on page 16 of the Children’s Kit Instruction book.
• How to insert a zipper fly front is on page 17.
• How to attach a bib to a waist edge is on page 18.
• General instructions for sewing a shirt/blouse are on page 20.
• Sewing a child’s cross-over shoulder T-shirt is on page 21.
• Sewing a hood on to a neck edge is found on page 22.
• How to sew a tab neckline treatment is on page 26.
• General skirt sewing instructions are on page 27.
• How to sew a tab front is found on page 29.
• How to sew children’s robes are on pages 30 & 31.
• How to sew a girl’s party dress is on page 32.

Men’s Instructional Package:

• General sewing construction steps for men’s pants is on page 10.

Additionally, all the newest Fashion Leaflets and book/DVD combinations provide fully illustrated sewing steps. 

Newest downloadable leaflets:

• Tank tops from your SFD Dress Kit.

• Leggings from your SFD Pants Kit.

Newest book/DVD combinations: 

• Pants that Mix ‘n’ Multiply,

• Sew Sensational Shirts, and

• Beyond Bodice Basics

(Each book/DVD is designed specifically to go hand-in-hand with the SFD Pants Kit, Shirt Kit and Dress Kit.)

In an effort to give you sewing construction guidance, first analyze your current resources.  Did you know all of this existed in the Sure-Fit Designs™ kits, patterns and leaflets?   

Do you have a stockpile of existing commercial patterns?  The sewing steps provided on the accompanying guide sheets provide an excellent source of instruction.  Their pattern may not be exactly what you are wanting to sew, but if there is any similarity in design to what you are creating, their instructions can be a great resource.

Do you have any general sewing construction resource books?  There are a number of comprehensive books available that not only provide construction techniques, but will also provide step-by-step procedures.  My favorite is the Vogue Sewing Book.  It’s a thick resource guide and well worth the investment.

What do you recommend as your favorite how-to sewing reference book?

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Yoga Pants (Una's variation)

When Pants that Mix 'n' Multiply (SFD pants styles designing book - June 2011) was first published, I had no idea how popular the Yoga/Travel/Comfort Pants would be.  I knew how easy they were to sew and how comfortable they are to wear and now as more and more ladies are sewing them, you're sending me photos of your results.  Thank you!!

Here's Una's cropped yoga/gym pants that she's extremely pleased with.  Thanks for sharing!

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