A BIG Thank you!

  What's in the blog?

1. A big, big thank you!
2. Narrowing the Pants Leg
3. Your favorite sewing notion

A Great Big Thanks

Glenda the Good Stitch is saying many, many thanks to all of you who took the time to complete the survey questions from last week.  Wow!  Did you ever provide lots of food for thought and great topics for the Good Stitch to discuss in the coming weeks and months.

I generally don't repeat blog information very often, but we've had an influx of new SFD followers, and obviously they don't all know what you might know.

Narrowing the Pants Leg

One respondent asked about the leg width of the SFD Pants pattern.  She said that due to her larger hip circumference, when the pants pattern was said and done, she felt the leg width was too wide.  Even though the leg width doesn't grade out as wide as was needed for the hip circumference, for her height, she wanted the leg narrower.  Personal preference comes into play her, as some ladies might say the leg width was just fine.

So here's a video showing you how to narrow the leg.  It's very simple to do as long as you keep the amount removed basically the same on the inseam and side seam.

I often get asked how long the pant length should be.  First, it all depends on the height of heel you'll be wearing with that particular style of pants.  Generally, the higher the heel height the longer the pant length. 

In addition to heel height, you also need to think about hem circumference.  Here's a little rule of thumb for the length and circumference of the hem:  The skinnier/narrower the width of the pants leg (like in skinny jeans), the shorter the pant length should likely be.  The wider the circumference of the pant hem (as in flared leg pants), the longer the pant leg should likely be.

Once again, for those of you how are relatively new to Sure-Fit Designs and may not be aware of all the educational resources we offer, make sure you spend some time in the SFD Learning Center Video Library.

Your Most Favorite and Useful Sewing Notion??

And on a totally different topic, please use the comment box below to tell me the most important (sewing) notion you'd simply never want to be without when garment sewing.

Thanks so much,
Glenda...the Good Stitch!

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Knit Tip - Hems...Hmmmm

A beautifully prepared and finished hem enhances the look of any garment whether working with knits or woven fabric. In this blog, I'll focus on knit hemming techniques. But because a knit is by nature stretchy, sometimes achieving a nice, flat edge to hem can be challenging.

In a nutshell, here are some of your options:

• If the knit doesn't run, some can be left just as the cut edge.

• Some knits will do well with a serged/overlocked edge, turned up 1/4" and topstitched.

• A decorative (serged) rolled and stretched lettuce edge might be appropriate for some garments.

• Perhaps simply folded to the inside and bonded with a fusible web will work for some knits.

• Consider using a blind hem for more stable double knits.

• Some knits will require stabilizing first - particularly those where the cut edge tends to curl. Then once turned to the inside could be cover stitched - if you have a cover stitch machine option.

And though I don't (currently) have photos of all options, let's take a look...

This is a slinky-type jacquard knit. The drape is lovely, it has a beautiful hand and is a stable knit - meaning it does not run. Because the hem goes up and down and up and down, it would have made it challenging to sew even a narrow 1/4" turned hem.

The solution - leave the cut edge as is.

Here's a close-up of the cut edge. (I wish I'd bought more of this fabric in different colors - hind sight is always 20/20).













Next you'll see a much thinner knit where the edge is beginning to curl.

Some knits curl considerably more than this example.







And even though this next knit wasn't particularly 'curly', the fabric itself is quite thin and for a really nice hem, I stabilized it. I'll show you how

This is a 1 1/4" wide strip of iron-on fine, fusible interfacing which I fused to the inside of the hem edge.

If you don't have a pre-cut roll of fusible interfacing, you can cut your strips from yardage. This roll is pre-cut at 1 1/4" wide. I wanted a 1" wide hem, so I very carefully trimmed away 1/4".

Then press the 1" hem toward the wrong side.

I used the Cover Stitch option on my BabyLock Evolution. This is what the inside looks like.

I love this Cover Stitch option. As long as your hem is perfectly lined up, the result is 2 perfectly spaced rows of stitching...just like in ready-to-wear. And by having added the fusible interfacing at the edge of the hem, the fabric laid flat and stable throughout the stitching process.

The outcome was just what I intended it to be.




Kindly,

Glenda

P.S. The side of the hem hikes up slightly on the right side. This was intentional. I inserted shirring elastic on the right side seam only which results in a slight asymmetrical drape at the hem - all part of the plan!

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So Adorable & very Clever!

Isn't this little girl just adorable?  And she has a mom who's been very clever and creative in sewing this 'dress'.  Actually, mom, who's name is Samara, took a ready made man's shirt, her daughter's SFD Children's Kit pattern, cut the shirt all up, and sewed it back together.  I'm including her instructions so you'll get the total picture of what she did.

.

'To make the bodice, I took a man's shirt with all the buttons buttoned up.  I flattened and straightened it as much as possible.  Then I took my daughter's front bodice pattern (from the Children's Kit), laid it over top, and line the center front up with the middle of the buttons.  I matched the pattern's shoulder seam (not seam allowance) with the shoulder of the shirt.  Then, with a pencil, I traced around the armhole, side and bottom of the pattern.  I did that on right and left sides, then flipped the shirt over and did the same with the back bodice pattern.

Then I cut on the drawn lines...of course, the collar and shoulders of the shirt were still intact.

Next, I cut the sleeves from the original shirt and laid my daughter's sleeve pattern over top.  Because I wanted a few more gathers in the sleeve, I first slashed and spread it open to make it a bit fuller.  I matched my desired hem level with the pre-hemmed shirt sleeve - meaning I didn't need to do any hemming at all.

Next, I set the sleeve in and then sewed the entire side and sleeve length...similar to how one would do a raglan sleeve.  I do this with smaller clothing because it's a little easier to sew in the sleeve when the side seams are still open.

For the contrasting tie/belt, I stitched two large buttonholes an inch apart in 4 separate places on the bodice (8 buttonholes in total).

For the skirt, I left the shirt hem intact, measured how long I wanted the skirt, cut straight across the man's shirt and then gathered and sewed it to the bodice.

The collar, sleeve and skirt hems and CF buttons were already done.  I loved that!  The entire dress probably took about 1 hour from start to finish.  All the sewing I needed to do was to set in the sleeve, sew the sides and add the skirt.  And of course, with her SFD pattern laid over top, I knew it was all going to fit.

Oh...and the tie...I also made bloomers from the tie fabric just because I couldn't resist.'

Samara...cute, cute, cute...and so clever and creative!

Not too many ladies share their children's sewing projects with me. Thanks so much and also for giving permission to share your experience with all my readers.
Kindly,
Glenda

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