Sleeve Pitch: Increasing the Sleeve Pitch

As you read in last week's blog - Sleeves and all their Quirkiness - the Sure-Fit Designs Sleeve pattern is designed for ease of use, both in drawing and in construction, meaning the hem level is straight with a 1" (2.5cm) wide fold-up hem. A you increase the forward pitch, the hem will/should change to a gradual curve.  Additionally, the front underarm seam will bend to follow the forward hang of your arm.

Directions:

1.  Trace a copy of your SFD sleeve                    
pattern WITHOUT seam allowances or
hem allowance.  Label as shown: A - B -
C - D - E - F - G - H. (Point F & I will be
established during the drawing).


2. Extend the grainline down to the hem level, point A.

















  3.  Draw a line from point A to B. 

4.  Cut from point A to B, and from C to B.  Leave a tiny paper hinge at point B - the pivot point.

5.  Pivot section A-B-C-D toward the middle of the sleeve.  Point D will move 'inward' 1/2" (1.3cm).  This is easiest done on a grain/grid board as shown.  Tape to secure.

6.  Since 1/2" (1.3cm) was taken away from the hem width on the back underarm seam, you need to add this amount 1/2" (1.3cm) to the right of point E on the front underarm seam.  Label as point F.  This maintains the same wrist circumference opening to pull the sleeve over your hand.

7.  Connect point F to G.  Point G should be smoothed slightly.  Measure both the front and back underarm seam lengths - minus the dart space on the back seam.  Underarm seams need to be the same length or a tiny bit shorter in the front (which would be eased into the back seam).  Adjust the length of the front underarm seam if necessary.



8.  F to G to H is the front underarm seam.  You may want to curve/bend this seam further.  It will depend on if you have enough elbow circumference ease for your particular arm shape.  If you'd like to shape this seam, mark 1/2" (1.3cm) toward the left of point G.  Label as point I.  Connect F to I to H.  Use the Designing Stylus to blend/shape the curve at this bend in the seam.  Now that you have substantially changed the length and shape of the front underarm seam, compare to the length of the back underarm seam - minus the dart space.  Lengthen or shorten at the hem level as needed.
 

            

 9.  The elbow dart has become slightly                            

wider.  Simply back the opening with tracing vellum. Tape securely.  Re-establish the center fold line of the dart and the new dart side seam cutting lines.

10.  At the wrist/hem level, connect point D to F in a slightly curved line.  The Designing Stylus is a great tool to draw this transition.

11.  Lastly, add 5/8" (1.6cm) seam allowances to all edges.  Because the wrist/hem level is now curved, you can't use a fold up hem allowance.  This edge will require a shaped facing.

Sew a trial sleeve to test this pattern shape on your arm. Depending on the shape and hang of your arm, you may need to further increase the forward pitch and/or change the shape of the front underarm seam.

Happy Sewing,

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SFD Introductory How-To DVD-on sale for a limited time

The most up-to-date introductory DVD on how to draw off your Sure-Fit Designs patterns is now on sale.  If you don't yet have the latest SFD How-To DVD (new as of 2015), now is your opportunity.

It's regularly $29.95.  Currently it's on Sale for 20% off.  Sale price is $23.95 (+ S&H) and will be until Aug. 23, 2015.

Click Here to order.

What you'll get:

• 2 DVD's ~ 4 hr. of video instruction

• How to take accurate measurements for pants, bodice, skirt, the uni-sex Shirt Kit, Children's patterns & Men's Pants.

• Filmed in HD for clarity

• Close-ups for detail

• See how to design for dresses/blouses/skirts/pants & shirts

• Beginner to advanced will benefit with this DVD tutorial

Save 20% - Click Here to order.

For a brief video overview of this How-To DVD, watch this short overview.

Enjoy!
Glenda...the Good Stitch

 

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A shaped Back Shoulder Yoke

Vest Success continued...
In early April, I published a blog called Vest Success.  One of our SFD ladies designed the Reversible Vest (a relatively new SFD downloadable Fashion Leaflet).  This particular lady had a back shoulder dart that she needed to deal with.  She needed the back shoulder dart for her slightly rounded shoulder blades, but didn't want the dart appearing in her vest.  When drawing the vest pattern, she simply transferred this dart into the armscye and the resulting slightly curved seam took care of the dart and she ended up with a yoke detail in the back of her vest.

Because her photos were somewhat dark, I simply outlined the stitching lines that she designed.  Now you can see where the back yoke is.

Not long after this blog was published, another SFD lady asked if I would show you the details for turning the back shoulder dart into a yoke with slightly curved stitching line.  The easiest way for me to do this was to film a short video showing you the process.

First, let's review how to add a back shoulder dart.
Step 1: Draw line A to B as illustrated.  This line should be at a level where the most rounding or protruding fullness is on your back/shoulder blades.  Then draw line C to D as shown.  This line does not have to be at a right angle to A-B, but the angle that you choose will affect the final position of the dart, therefore, it should be at a pleasing angle for your specific body shape.  You may need to sew a couple of tests to make sure you're pleased with the results.

Step 2: Cut from A to B and from C to D, leaving a paper hinge at the armscye point B and at point D on line A-B.

Step 3: Spread the shoulder area of the pattern open as shown always maintaining the paper hinge points.  This will open up a small dart shape in the shoulder seam line and will automatically lengthen CB.  Often people with rounded, protruding shoulder blades also have some rounding at the upper back and this extra length will help the bodice back to sit more comfortably.  Additionally, depending on how rounded your entire back is, you may also want to add a CB seam which is shaped/curved to suit your body contours.

Step 4: The more you open/lengthen CB that results in a wider dart, the more the upper and lower center back line becomes 'jogged'.  To maintain CB on the fold of the fabric, simply draw/true a new CB from the back neck point to the waist point.  Also re-establish a parallel straight of grain marking.  Depending on how accurately you measured your CB waist length and where this length is actually needed, you may now need to shorten CB at the waist edge and gently true from CB to the side seam.

Step 5:  This technique for adding a shoulder dart shouldn't distort the armscye significantly.  However, if the armscye appears to angled at the armscye hinge pivot point, make sure to blend/true to create a smooth curve.

This is what it looks like in 'real life'.

Now, on to changing this back shoulder dart into a back shoulder yoke that is slightly curved.  It really is a simple process.  Please watch this video to see how to accomplish this technique.

Just click on the forward arrow to begin play.  It's a short video and a simple process.  I know you'll find it easy to do.

Kindly,
Glenda...the Good Stitch!

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Zipper Scratchies!

Protect yourself from those darn 'zipper scratchies'!

Sometimes when wearing a garment with an invisible zipper, the end of it - where the zipper stops - can be rough and scratchy.  Here's a quick tip on how to cover that end before you insert the zipper.

1. Use a soft, yet dense enough strip of fabric like cotton interlock.  Cut the strip 1" (2.5 cm) by about 2 1/4" (5.8 cm) wide.

2.  Lay this strip on the right side of the zipper tape with the cut edge almost on the end of the zipper.  Stitch directly beneath the zipper stop across the width of the zipper.

 3.  Trim some of the strip to remove excess bulk.

 4.  Fold the fabric strip around to the wrong side of the zipper wrapping/enclosing the ends of the zipper tape.

5.  Then from the right side, stitch in the ditch, sewing through all layers to secure it in position.

6.  Proceed with the normal application instructions to insert an invisible zipper.

...And on the inside, it looks like this...

This soft, little piece of fabric protects you from the 'zipper scratchies'.  It's a quick little technique.  Give it a try the next time you apply an invisible zipper.

Kindly,
Glenda...the Good Stitch!

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A BIG Thank you!

  What's in the blog?

1. A big, big thank you!
2. Narrowing the Pants Leg
3. Your favorite sewing notion

A Great Big Thanks

Glenda the Good Stitch is saying many, many thanks to all of you who took the time to complete the survey questions from last week.  Wow!  Did you ever provide lots of food for thought and great topics for the Good Stitch to discuss in the coming weeks and months.

I generally don't repeat blog information very often, but we've had an influx of new SFD followers, and obviously they don't all know what you might know.

Narrowing the Pants Leg

One respondent asked about the leg width of the SFD Pants pattern.  She said that due to her larger hip circumference, when the pants pattern was said and done, she felt the leg width was too wide.  Even though the leg width doesn't grade out as wide as was needed for the hip circumference, for her height, she wanted the leg narrower.  Personal preference comes into play her, as some ladies might say the leg width was just fine.

So here's a video showing you how to narrow the leg.  It's very simple to do as long as you keep the amount removed basically the same on the inseam and side seam.

I often get asked how long the pant length should be.  First, it all depends on the height of heel you'll be wearing with that particular style of pants.  Generally, the higher the heel height the longer the pant length. 

In addition to heel height, you also need to think about hem circumference.  Here's a little rule of thumb for the length and circumference of the hem:  The skinnier/narrower the width of the pants leg (like in skinny jeans), the shorter the pant length should likely be.  The wider the circumference of the pant hem (as in flared leg pants), the longer the pant leg should likely be.

Once again, for those of you how are relatively new to Sure-Fit Designs and may not be aware of all the educational resources we offer, make sure you spend some time in the SFD Learning Center Video Library.

Your Most Favorite and Useful Sewing Notion??

And on a totally different topic, please use the comment box below to tell me the most important (sewing) notion you'd simply never want to be without when garment sewing.

Thanks so much,
Glenda...the Good Stitch!

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T-Shirt Tactics

Everybody loves to wear T-shirts.  For some they are a wardrobe staple - for others they are only occasional wear.  Whatever their place is in your clothing needs, you have choices within the Sure-Fit Designs fitting and designing system as to how you approach this style of garment.

Typically, the T-shirt is relatively close fitting and does not have a bust dart and is sewn from a knit fabric.  The no-bust dart feature does present a problem for you full-busted women.  You all know you will always achieve a superior fit when your pattern has a bust dart.

The Sure-Fit Designs pattern kits provide either the darted bodice pattern from the Dress Kit, or the undarted pattern from the Shirt Kit.  Most of you already know that the Dress Kit bodice has 2 1/2" (6.4 cm) ease in the bust circumference, whereas the Shirt Kit has 5-6" (12.7 - 15.2 cm) ease in the chest circumference.

Which kit to use for your T-shirt?   Since the T-Shirt is usually undarted with a closer fit to the body, you'd use the Dress Kit bodice (with the bust dart).  If you use the Shirt Kit, you'll have a looser fit and a much deeper armscye.

Ah Ha!  In comes my new article, T-Shirt Tactics, where I offer an alternative which uses the Dress Kit bodice and I show you how to remove the dart!  The result offers a fit that is closer to your body, the armscye is not as deep as with the Shirt Kit, and this process generally provides an excellent T-shirt alternative.

Yes I know it doesn't have a bust dart anymore, so you full-busted ladies will inevitably end up with some folding in the armscye that points toward your bust.  And no doubt, the shirt will likely hike up somewhat in the front because your don't have that bust dart shaping your bustline.  But since you are going to be sewing with a forgiving knit fabric, usually these issues are minimized.  But at least, you have 3 great choices now to design your favorite T-shirt with the Sure-Fit Designs patterns.

• Dress Kit bodice with dart

• Shirt Kit pattern - no dart - deeper armscye

• Dress Kit bodice without dart

To download your copy of the T-Shirt Tactics article with instructions to remove the dart, please Click Here, then simply scroll toward the middle of the page where you'll see the link for the .pdf file.

Just for fun and for interest, I finished my T-shirt with a self-fabric 2 1/2" wide band at the hem level, scooped the neck edge 2" all the way around and then filled in with a 1 1/2" self-fabric band.  A small tab was inserted at CF while applying the neck band and finished with a decorative button.

And another great benefit is that it can be 'Made in a Day'!  It's just one more quick project for you.

Give it a try and send me your comments and photos.  When you send your photos, I'll put together a T-Shirt collage...and show off all of your work.  Please send photos to info@surefitdesigns.com.
Enjoy,
Glenda...the Good Stitch!

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Small Waist to Full High Hip

I know I covered this topic a few months ago, but I just had to show you another example of how adding a second dart at the waist line of your pants pattern can really improve the fit.

If you go from a relatively small waist to quite full high hips, I highly recommend adding a second dart to the waist edge of your pants pattern.

This lady attended one of my recent Fit & Sew Retreats.  She has a pretty dominant swayed, dipped center back (at the waist edge), and a small waist in relation to high hips that become quite full about 2 1/2" (6.4 cm) down from her waist level.  She is so curvy from waist to high hip, that I recommended she add a second dart at the waist edge of her pants patterns.

Here's the result:

She's always had difficulty getting any pants (or skirt for that matter) to fit in the high hip without being excessively big in the waist.

Keeping in mind these are test pants that are pinned closed, you're seeing a near to perfect crotch, perfect fit at the waist and in the hips and a beautiful hang on the leg.  From a side view you're seeing a perfectly straight side seam.

In the above close-up, you're seeing the position of the 2 waist-fitting darts.  They shape her hip shape beautifully.

She did a great job of drafting her pattern and the results as so worth her effort.  Well done...and great fit!

To see how to add this second waist-fitting dart, please watch this short video tutorial.

For any of you ladies who might fall into this category, you'll want to give this a try.

Kindly,
Glenda...the Good Stitch!

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Squishy, Spongy, Stretchy!

Topstitching a fabric that is squishy, spongy and stretchy is no fun!  And on top of that, the fabric I was using was a leather-like stretch, which meant once the needle pierced the fabric, it left distinctive holes.  And on top of this, the fabric would not press flat, which made it very difficult when turning and pressing seams.  No second chances on this project!

Here's what the finished jacket looks like.

It's a Sure-Fit Designs knock-off of a jacket I saw in NYC.  Exposed zippers are ever so popular.

Mine of course, being all black, doesn't have quite the bizazz appeal like the black & white ready-to-wear, but it's still a stunning jacket.  And the SFD version does have a shoulder yoke - just not as deep in toward the armscye area.

This blog is going to focus only on the topstitching process and tips that I'd like to share with you if you ever come across this type of situation.  Since I knew I had one chance only to get it right, meaning evenly spaced, straight, no skipped stitches and no puckers, testing prior to the final topstitching was definitely required.

Yup!  This fabric is great to look at, but it sure did have it's challenges.  It just simply wouldn't feed well when the leathery side is face up.  I'd purchased both a solid black as well as a perforated patterned piece.  I got them both in the Stretch House during my NYC excursion.

I combined both these fabrics in this jacket.  With a traditional seam, if right sides were being sewn together, it wasn't a problem, but if you needed to topstitch...well - watch out!  It has kind of a leather-like look and a little bit of a sticky feel.

The feed dogs didn't like it.  The walking foot didn't help feed the under and upper layers equally.  Perhaps a roller foot would have worked, but since I didn't have that machine attachment another solution needed to be found.

After much testing, I settled on a paper-like tear-away stabilizer.  I had 3 different ones to test and ended up using this Sulky Tear-Away.  It's years old and I'm sure the price is more than  $1.99 now, but for this project, it worked the best.

What did I test before sewing the one and only chance I was going to get?
First, I recreated a seam scenario as close to what the finished jacket had - meaning the solid black fabric was on the underside of the lapel.  The perforated fabric was on the top side.
Then I tested:

• the best needle choice to prevent skipped stitches.  Of course, new is always preferable.
• stitch length - what would look the best on the finished edge.
• which stabilizer tore away the easiest without too much pulling and stress on the stitches.

This is just a photo of the test sample.  I did about 3 different swatches.

































After choosing the most appropriate stitch length, best needle and stabilizer, I prepared the stabilizer.  It had to be cut in the exact shape of the neck line curve so that I could lay it in place and see the folded edge of the seam.  I used the pattern's neck edge for this.

Then I took a deep breath, centered my thoughts and began topstitching.  Remember, I had only one chance at this - this fabric was so unforgiving that I couldn't pick it out if I happened to sew crooked.

 

Here's a close-up of the stitching before the stabilizer was torn away.

Next came tearing the stabilizer away.  Even this needed to be done with control - one side at a time for both the upper and under layers.

When it was all said and done, I was quite happy with the results, but I'd been agonizing over this final process for the last few days, knowing that it was one chance or the whole thing would be ruined.

Here's a close-up.

I am happy with the results.  Feel free to comment or add your opinions of how you would have tackled a similar challenge.  Also, watch for a new downloadable Fashion Leaflet describing how to modify your SFD bodice blueprint to achieve this jacket.  I hope to have that available for your soon.

Kindly,
Glenda...the Good Stitch!

P.S. Although this next jacket isn't quite the same (nor is it a Sure-Fit Designs jacket), when I saw it on Imogene Lamport from Inside Out Style - I thought it was so similar in design with the exposed zipper offset on one side, that I wanted to show it to you.  And what a difference it makes to sew it in white for a summery look...also notice the shorter hip length...more like the NYC jacket in white and black.

 

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